Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face

Wednesday 12 July 2017, 1:16am -- alastair.mcdowell

IMG_3824.JPG

Gemma Wilson on Thank God Ledge

Creator: 
A McDowell

"Alastair! Come help me!"

I spun around and sprinted down a slope of broken granite, when a whiff of something toxic temporarily blinded me. Confused, rushing, I tripped down the scree to find Gemma doubled over, screaming, a quivering hand held up covered in orange oil. "What's happened to you!" Strolling down from the summit of Half Dome an hour earlier, our tallest big wall climb to date, we thought all the difficulties were over. Who would have known the last two hours to the valley floor would prove to be the crux.

About the NZAT

Monday 22 May 2017, 10:17am -- jazmorris

Taulliraju south peak

Taulliraju south peak

Steve, Rose and Al on the south peak of Taulliraju

Creator: 
Al McDowell

What is the New Zealand Alpine Team?

The New Zealand Alpine Team is an initiative of the Expedition Climbers Club Inc. that represents a new concept for climbing in this country. It is born of a desire to support and encourage aspiring young Kiwi alpinists looking to improve their mountain skills. Some of New Zealand's best alpine climbers have volunteered their time to mentor a future generation of alpinists. In doing so, we are hoping to help a group of young climbers to learn valuable skills and knowledge that might have otherwise taken them many more years to acquire.

Tags: 

A New Alpine Rock Route on Cloudy Peak

Friday 21 April 2017, 10:30am -- Sarwan Chand

cloudypk9.jpg

Sarwan and Jack approaching the summit of Cloudy Peak after having completed a new route on the southwest ridge

Creator: 
S. Fortune

The Expedition Climbers Club (ECC) recently organised a rock climbing trip to Cloudy Peak in late February this year with the intention of encouraging alpine rock climbing on new and existing routes. With a reasonable but less than ideal weather forecast, Steve Fortune along with Arthur Lachat and Coco of the French Alpine team headed up to Erewhon late on the evening of the 23rd, armed with a rack, a savage looking machete and several rolls of pink tape.

Climbing Communications

Tuesday 18 April 2017, 11:55am -- steven.fortune

jonas.jpg

Jonas leading on the North Buttress of Sabre

Creator: 
J. Morris

Within our team, we want to standardise the calls we use, so you always know what to expect when you climb with someone from the NZAT. It is good to reduce the calls you use to a bare minimum and not say unnecessary things as these can add more confusion than clarity. A belayer/climber does not need a running commentary and you don't want a shouting match at the end of a pitch. It is also a good principle to acknowledge any calls heard, as often the caller does not know if they are heard. This is normally a simple 'OK' or 'Thank You'. This article describes the standard climbing calls and procedures used when climbing. Sticking to these and only these, will help reduce misunderstandings when climbing.

Climbing Moab's Classic Desert Towers

Sunday 9 April 2017, 10:28am -- alastair.mcdowell

fine jade.jpg

Alastair on Fine Jade (5.11) on the Rectory

Creator: 
J. Bouchard

After two months of fantastic ice & mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies, finally the seasons were beginning to signal a change, with warm temperatures melting off ice pillars and sending avalanche ratings up to extreme. Colours of Instagram were also transforming, from the white, blue and grey of the alpine to the rich orange and red of the desert. Canadians were flocking southwards to the sandstone splitters of Moab, and I felt compelled to join them.

Salewa Firetail Evo Approach Shoe

Friday 24 March 2017, 12:05pm -- steven.fortune

firetail-evo-moon-red.png

Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

There are many alpine rock routes including technical rock climbing, that you want to change into rock shoes for, that you need to carry the shoes you approach in. This is the category this shoe works brilliantly in, that I call approach shoes. Low weight is key here, you don't want to lug your old heavy leather tramping boots up a hard pitch, but they also need to be robust enough to handle a scrambling approach or scree descent that might rip a pair of light fabric trainers to shreds. The Firetail is my favourite shoe in this category. They were light enough to carry up a hard pitch of a new route at Cloudy Peak, robust enough to handle the long scree descent.

Cerro Torre - Ragni Route

Thursday 2 March 2017, 2:20am -- daniel.joll

Kim Face Cerro Torre Attempt re size.jpg

Ragni Route Cerro Torre

Kim Ladiges on the Ragni Route Cerro Torre , this was taken during a failed attempt where we turned around due to bad weather

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Man Spooning – Verb , two men locked in the spoon position during an alpine bivy.  Depending on the participants, usually a function of age and or temperature, man spooning may take several seconds, minutes or even hours to begin. Once both parties have accepted the terms on their situation, man spooning usually continues until it’s time to start climbing.  It is not common to hear the expression “Lets manspoon” this is usually a silent agreement. 

Scroll to the bottom of this story for a video from this and other previous attempts on the Ragni Route

Safety Alert: Avoiding common, preventable climbing accidents

Wednesday 1 March 2017, 7:19am -- Anonymous (not verified)

abseil with rope coils - Copy.JPG

Daniel Joll abseiling with coiled ropes to prevent the knotted ends from being stuck on a windy abseil

Creator: 
Karl Merry Schimanksi

We are propagating accidents, injuries and deaths. In almost all commercial industries, when multiple near misses or similar accidents occur, they are analysed and methods are instigated to eliminate the causal factors. Even rats in a maze learn not to make the same mistakes multiple times. But it seems the climbing community hasn’t yet learned. All too often I hear of people either dying, being seriously injured, or narrowly avoiding catastrophe due to the same preventable errors.

El Capitan Nose In A Day Beta

Sunday 19 February 2017, 1:42am -- daniel.joll

The Nose El Capitan.jpg

The Nose El Capitan Yosemite

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite. Beta for climbing the "Nose In A Day" (NIAD)

The Nose on El Capitan has to be one of the world’s most popular big wall climbs. Climbing the route in traditional big wall style and in particular, climbing the Nose in a day (NIAD) is a popular rite of passage for climbers from around the world.

Independant Climbing & Trekking in the Langtang Valley, Nepal

Wednesday 28 December 2016, 9:37pm -- gemmawilson

14853137_10154751208544589_4675028292909944379_o.jpg

Gemma and Peggy in the lower Langtang valley

Creator: 
Gemma Wilson

North of Kathmandu, bordering Tibet, is the picturesque and highly diverse Lantang Valley. For any outdoor enthusiast this is the ideal location for moderate-challenging trekking, easy peak climbing or hard high altitude climbing all situated in the abundance of Tibetan culture, huge Himalayan peaks, roaring rivers and small villages where you will always feel welcome.

 

Pages

Subscribe to alpineteam.co.nz RSS