NZAT announces appointment of new Advisory Mentors

Sunday 23 September 2018, 7:43pm -- bendare

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New Advisory Mentors Tim Macartney-Snape, Lionel Clay and Allan Uren

New Advisory Mentors Tim Macartney-Snape, Lionel Clay and Allan Uren

Creator: 
Ben Dare

The New Zealand Alpine Team are proud to announce that Tim Macartney-Snape, Lionel Clay and Allan Uren will be joining the NZAT in an Advisory Mentor role.

Tim, Lionel and Allan are three of Australasia’s most accomplished alpine climbers. They each have a wealth of experience spanning a number of decades, and the knowledge and expertise that they will bring to the NZAT is invaluable.

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Traverse of Les Drus to Aiguille Verte

Wednesday 12 September 2018, 8:02am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Alastair, Daniel & Chris on the summit of Aiguille Verte (4120m)

Creator: 
Chris Warner

The Integral ridge spanning the Flames De Pierre to Aiguille Verte should be one of the iconic Chamonix alpine climbs. Over the course of 5 days, Daniel Joll, Chris Warner and Alastair McDowell traversed the granite skyline ridge connecting Les Flammes de Pierre, Les Drus, Aiguille Sans Nom and Aiguille Verte, descending via the Moine Ridge to Couvercle Refuge.

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Rose Pearson's picture

A Second New Route - Sheila Face Aoraki/Mount Cook

Wednesday 12 September 2018, 12:00am -- Rose Pearson

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Sam approaching the summit ridge

Sam climbing to the summit ridge

Creator: 
Rose Pearson

The Ministry of Silly Walks - MC5+, WI4, M4, 800m

Rose Pearson and Sam Waetford have followed in Caleb and Kim's foot steps to climb another new route on the Sheila face of Mount Cook. Rose and Sam had been watching the weather hoping the high would continue through the weekend as Sam wasn't flying in from Australia till midday on Friday. They had three days before the weather broke, and decided to aim for the Sheila after hearing it was in good condition from Kim and Caleb on the way down to MCNP.

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New Route - Sheila Face Aoraki Mount Cook

Friday 7 September 2018, 12:03am -- daniel.joll

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Sheila Face Mount Cook

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

We are excited to announce that NZAT members Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have climbed what is arguably the last plum unclimbed line on Aoraki Mount Cook.

Caleb and Kim left Empress hut around midnight on the 5th of September arriving back to Empress 24 hours later having completed the first ascent of the direct line. They named the route "Pilgrim", which goes at a grade of MC6, WI5, M6, 750M. The crux pitch involved a difficult detached ice pillar, with steep moves pulling over a small roof bulge. 

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Mt Hutton South Face - First Ascent

Monday 27 August 2018, 2:12pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Alastair, Caleb and Rose on Mt Hutton under a full moon

Creator: 
A. McDowell

The South Face of Mt Hutton (2820m) at the head of the Cass Valley in Tekapo received its first ascent on Sunday 26th August 2018 by three members of the New Zealand Alpine Team, Caleb Jennings, Rose Pearson and Alastair McDowell. Both the ascent and descent was illuminated by a full moon, casting a huge shadow across the face as they approached, and making headlamps unnecessary on the descent as the Southern Alps glowing around them, so they named the route 'Moonshadow' (MC 5+, 500m).

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Twenty Five Mile Creek Ice

Monday 27 August 2018, 11:35am -- bendare

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Twenty File Mile Falls. WI4R, 100m. The main flow in the centre of the cirque.

Twenty File Mile Falls. WI4R, 100m. The main flow in the centre of the cirque.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

 

A multi-pitch ice climbing crag located at the head of Twenty Five Mile Creek – a tributary of the Rees River.

This was an area first spotted during a scenic flight in the winter of 2016, but wasn’t properly explored until June of 2018 when three routes were climbed. The cirque at the head of the Twenty Five Mile Creek catchment sits directly below Twenty Five Mile Saddle and contains at least ten separate ice lines. Including the main flow of Twenty Five Mile Falls - a 100m WI4 route. This is marked as the 98m waterfall on the topographic map.

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2018

Wednesday 25 July 2018, 12:22am -- daniel.joll

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Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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New Route – South Face of Mt Suter

Wednesday 18 July 2018, 10:38am -- Anonymous (not verified)

‘Elysium’ Grade VI, 6 (AI5), 750m.

On the South Face of Mt Suter (2094m) in the Darran Mountains, solo first ascent, Ben Dare, July 12, 2018.

Sometimes the best adventures are those that we don’t plan for. The ones where we set out on a whim. Without specific goals or objectives, and without the burden of expectation. These are the adventures where spontaneity is king and where we open ourselves up to possibilities not previously considered.

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Yosemite - One Month of El Capitan

Sunday 17 June 2018, 10:02pm -- alastair.mcdowell

El Capitan

El Capitan

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Yosemite Valley saw a true Kiwi invasion this spring season, swarming to the most famous big walls in the world. Our attention in this expedition was unequivocally focused on the greatest of them all, El Capitan. Over the course of the month, our group would go on to climb the Motherstone by six different routes, for a total of 15 El Cap ascents between them.

Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team’s official training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies. These two destinations are the most convenient for kiwi climbers looking to gain mileage & experience ice climbing and big wall climbing as a foundation for larger alpine objectives.

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