NZAT Ice Training Camp

Monday 5 September 2016, 9:56pm -- Sarwan Chand


David Chen climbing a left variation to Dirty Rotten Scoundrels (WI4)

K. Brown

As part of our training for the up and coming team trip to Canada, the team spent the weekend prior to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival at one of New Zealands premier Ice climbing locations,Wye Creek, to hone skills, work on technique and gain more mileage on steep ice.


Remarkables Ice & Mixed Festival 2016

Wednesday 31 August 2016, 9:07pm -- alastair.mcdowell


Remarkables Ice and Mixing Climbing Festival

Climber on the West Face of the Telecom Towers

Gavin Lang Photography

Now in its fifth year running, the Remarkables Ice & Mixed Festival is becoming a must-attend event on the NZ climbing calendar! Climbers from all around the country and overseas gather in Queenstown for a long weekend to learn and practice basic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing and ski touring.

Rose Pearson's picture

The Carrington Rouse

Sunday 31 January 2016, 11:41am -- Rose Pearson

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The Carrington Rouse Crux

Rose Pearson climbing the curx on the Carrington Rose, during a winter trip to Chamonix

Daniel Joll

The Carrington Rouse (originally known as the Rebuffet Terray) is a classic ice and mixed climb on the Aiguille Des Pélerins in the European Alps. With 550m of technical climbing and a close proximity to the mid-station of the Midi lift it makes for a nice winter day-trip from town if you plan to sim-climb it or a 1-day climb if you pitch the cruxes with a bivy before or after at the mid-station. Dan, Kim, Rose and Peter climbed this in thin conditions in late January 2016. We found it to be fun and engaging with a crux just below the routes top-out at the Col des Pélerins. What follows is a quick route description and some gear beta.

The Progeny: A First Ascent of the West Ridge of Percy Smith

Monday 18 January 2016, 11:11pm -- Pete Harris

South West Face of Percy Smith

South West Face of Percy Smith

The South West Face of Percy Smith

Pete Harris

From what is admittedly a very limited amount of experience, there’s one thing about first ascents which stands out to me. Perhaps I do have a shred of paternal instinct and it’s finally kicking in, but in many ways, I find a first ascent to be akin to having a child (again, limited experience). 

It’s a fraught process, into which you invest a significant part of yourself. More than anything, a first ascent is a journey: a formative journey replete with angst, joy, relief and a small shred of pride. 

Summer Alpine Climbing - Aspiring, Douglas & Aoraki

Wednesday 13 January 2016, 11:56pm -- alastair.mcdowell


Setting out on the Grand Traverse of Aoraki/Mt Cook

Michael Eatson
Late spring and early summer often produce fine snow & ice conditions for mountaineering routes on our great peaks. Since the recent trials for the New Zealand Alpine team, the new team members have been busy getting out into the mountains ticking classic routes throughout the Southern Alps. Between them they have racked up ascents of Aspiring, Aoraki, and Douglas, all climbed in superb conditions. One of the core ambitions of the NZ Alpine team is to link up climbing partners keen to go alpine climbing together, and this has certainly been the case over the last few months.

Aoraki South Face - Grand Traverse and Tasman Syme-Silberhorn

Thursday 7 January 2016, 9:34pm -- Reg Measures


Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman)

Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman). Aoraki/Mt. Cook and Lake Pukaki in the background.

Reg Measures

In early December Reg Measures teamed up with visiting climber Tim Elson to link some classic face and ridge routes in a rapid traverse of New Zealand's two highest peaks. They found excellent conditions on White Dream (S Face of Aoraki/Mt.Cook) and the Syme and Silberhorn Ridges (Mt. Tasman/Horokoau) but slower blue ice conditions on the summit ridges.

Eiger North Face 1938 Route Winter Ascent Beta and Free Topo

Saturday 2 January 2016, 12:10am -- daniel.joll

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Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Daniel Joll

The Eiger North Face is one of the classic alpine routes in the world. Long, steep, committing and a story made famous by books like The White Spider and Clint Eastwoods movie the Eiger Sanction, it is a must do climb for many alpinists. There is much written about the North Face of the Eiger and also some excellent topos available online. I thought however it might be good to share the climbing gear we took with us for a winter ascent.

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