Patagonia - Tierra del Viento

Thursday 22 February 2018, 7:16am -- alastair.mcdowell

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The Torre Group at sunrise

Dan Joll

After our first exhausting failed effort on Punta Herron, our motivation for a second attempt was drained, none of us thought we would be returning anytime soon. This was our main objective, but the thought of repeating the twelve-pitch approach traverse beneath Standhardt only to find Punta Herron unclimbable again was a risk our sore bodies dreaded, now four weeks into the trip. But spotting the bone-dry north ridge of Punta Herron from Mermoz rejuvenated our psych, and after five days of Chalten extravagance we were rearing for a second attempt.

North Face of Cholatse - Equipment , Clothing and Route Beta

Monday 29 January 2018, 2:41am -- daniel.joll

Cholatse, view towards the NE and NF on the approach trek

Cholatse, view towards the NE and NF on the approach trek

Daniel Joll

The following outlines our acclimatization schedule, climbing equipment and clothing used for an ascent of the North Face of Cholatse.  You can find a video of the ascent here


12 ice screws , various sizes but with two stubby screws

Single set of cams, green C3 - #2 Camalot

Single set of wires #1 – 7

4 x pins , 2 knife blades and two angles

Macpac Pulsar Plus

Monday 15 January 2018, 1:04pm -- daniel.joll

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Belay North Face Cholatse

Matt at another cold belay on the North Face of Cholatse

Daniel Joll

Macpac Pulsar Plus concept by – Daniel Joll , review by Matthew Scholes

I was sitting in El Chalten, Patagonia, with Kim Ladiges after a successful but particularly wet and cold ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. In total we were out for six cold and wet days. Often sleeping in our tent on top of a bed of water. We were talking over our ideas for the perfect synthetic belay jacket. Something that would perform well in cold, damp environments and also had a technical cut allowing you to easily climb while wearing it. We used the Pulsar, but felt we wanted something a bit beefier for cold conditions. The concept for the Pulsar Plus was born from this conversation.

The Salathe Wall

Tuesday 12 December 2017, 6:32pm -- gemmawilson

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Gemma at the top of the Enduro Corner

Dan Joll

Salathe Baby! There were people everywhere! Coming up underneath us, rapping down on top of us, jugging fixed ropes and haul bags from every angle. Freerider is a 3 pitch variant of the famous Salathe Wall on the south-west face of El Capitan. It has become an incredibly popular route, and after climbing it you can see why!

The Ice Hammock

Tuesday 5 December 2017, 12:01pm -- Anonymous (not verified)


The ice hammock in use on an ascent of the North Face of Cholatse, Nepal

Matthew Scholes

The ice hammock is a relatively new invention and although it's a great idea and works well, it's unlikely that any outdoor company is going to start making them commercially anytime soon, so we thought its worth writing an article for anyone who has an interest in making and using them for alpine climbing.

West Ridge Mt Sefton (3151m)

Friday 24 November 2017, 3:36pm -- jazmorris

I recently snuck off from a social tramping trip to the Copland Hot Pools to make a solo ascent of the West Ridge of Mt Sefton. The easiest route on Mt Sefton (MC 2+), the West Ridge provides a straightforward snow climb from Welcome Pass. The route either follows the reasonably level Douglas Neve to where a final snowslope leads to the summit, or else a much more interesting and crevasse free option involves gaining the ridge crest shortly after Welcome Pass and sidling a beautiful sharp snow ridgeline until the final summit slope.

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