Advice

Saturday 20 October 2018, 9:15pm
daniel.joll

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Gemma Wilson being helicopter rescued from the Dolomites via a long line

Creator: 
Kristy Shelley

Gemma Wilson being helicopter rescued from the Dolomites via a long line

Creator: 
Kristy Shelley

During a recent trip to the Dolomites in Italy I found myself in a rescue situation with an injured climbing partner. We were climbing as a team of three, and one of the seconders pulled off a large block which fell down onto the third member of our team. I thought sharing a few tips on how to manage the situation and how to haul an injured climber could be useful for someone else who might find themselves in a similar situation.

Saturday 21 April 2018, 3:24am
daniel.joll

Jono Approch to Les Drus.jpg

Les Drus North Face

Les Drus North Face

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Les Drus North Face

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

This is a straight forward article with all the facts you need for climbing the Lesueur route on the North Face of Les Drus.  To follow this beta you will need two climbers who feel comfortable simul climbing up to M5.  Otherwise pitch it out and adjust your time expectation.   

Rack

Nuts 1 – 7

Cams Double set green C3 – 3.  Single #4 camalot and purple c3

Draws x 10

120cm slings x 2

2 x 4m cordalette

3 x tibloc's

2 x knife blades , 3 x ice screws, knife , v thread tool.  None of these needed on route, just for the descent. 

Tuesday 5 December 2017, 12:01pm
Anonymous (not verified)

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The ice hammock in use on an ascent of the North Face of Cholatse, Nepal

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

The ice hammock in use on an ascent of the North Face of Cholatse, Nepal

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

The ice hammock is a relatively new invention and although it's a great idea and works well, it's unlikely that any outdoor company is going to start making them commercially anytime soon, so we thought its worth writing an article for anyone who has an interest in making and using them for alpine climbing.

Tuesday 18 April 2017, 11:55am
steven.fortune

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Jonas leading on the North Buttress of Sabre

Creator: 
J. Morris

Jonas leading on the North Buttress of Sabre

Creator: 
J. Morris

Within our team, we want to standardise the calls we use, so you always know what to expect when you climb with someone from the NZAT. It is good to reduce the calls you use to a bare minimum and not say unnecessary things as these can add more confusion than clarity. A belayer/climber does not need a running commentary and you don't want a shouting match at the end of a pitch. It is also a good principle to acknowledge any calls heard, as often the caller does not know if they are heard. This is normally a simple 'OK' or 'Thank You'. This article describes the standard climbing calls and procedures used when climbing. Sticking to these and only these, will help reduce misunderstandings when climbing.

Wednesday 1 March 2017, 7:19am
Anonymous (not verified)

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Daniel Joll abseiling with coiled ropes to prevent the knotted ends from being stuck on a windy abseil

Creator: 
Karl Merry Schimanksi

Daniel Joll abseiling with coiled ropes to prevent the knotted ends from being stuck on a windy abseil

Creator: 
Karl Merry Schimanksi

We are propagating accidents, injuries and deaths. In almost all commercial industries, when multiple near misses or similar accidents occur, they are analysed and methods are instigated to eliminate the causal factors. Even rats in a maze learn not to make the same mistakes multiple times. But it seems the climbing community hasn’t yet learned. All too often I hear of people either dying, being seriously injured, or narrowly avoiding catastrophe due to the same preventable errors.

Friday 22 July 2016, 12:37am
daniel.joll

Kim mid height on the Super Couloir.JPG

Kim Ladiges climbing the Super Couloir Mt Blanc Du Tacul

Kim Ladiges climbing the Super Couloir Mt Blanc Du Tacul

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Kim Ladiges climbing the Super Couloir Mt Blanc Du Tacul

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

There is no rope that does every job. Therefore when building your selection of climbing ropes here are a few points to consider.

As an alpine climber I keep quite 5 main ropes or pairs of ropes in my collection for regular use.

These ropes are made up of Tendon Master & Tendon Lowe ropes.

Saturday 2 January 2016, 11:42pm
Anonymous (not verified)

Jess in Squamish

Jess in Squamish

Cragging is just one part of training for alpinism

Creator: 
Pete Harris

Cragging is just one part of training for alpinism

Creator: 
Pete Harris

All of us find ourselves city bound from time to time. Here are some tips and tricks for staying mountain fit even during prolonged periods out of the mountains.

Wednesday 11 March 2015, 2:29pm
daniel.joll

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Steve Fortune short fixing, high up on the Nose of El Capitan

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Steve Fortune short fixing, high up on the Nose of El Capitan

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Please note that short-fixing is an advanced climbing technique and is not suitable for beginners or anyone new to trad climbing. In using this technique, it is necessary to have sufficient climbing experience to make a sound judgement call as to when it is appropriate to short-fix, and when it is not. This article seeks only to describe the concept of short-fixing and will not help you in making that judgement call. If you have any doubts, you should stick to regular belaying practises.

Wednesday 4 February 2015, 2:34pm
frazer.attrill

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Ben Dare on Professor Falls.

Creator: 
Jo-Anne

Ben Dare on Professor Falls.

Creator: 
Jo-Anne
1. Drop your heels - This is the most classic and common problem for people beginning ice climbing. Raising your heels too high can cause your front points to shear from the ice quickly and unexpectedly. Ideally heels should be so that your boots are completely horizontal, regardless of ice angle.
 
 
Wednesday 14 January 2015, 10:09am
Rose Pearson

Ice Climbing-0097.jpg

A selection of the kit that we used climbing each day - Ice axes (Petzl Quarks), crampons (Petzl Lynx), 40l pack, 1l thermos capacity, screamers, screws, abseil-tat, anchor set-up and sandwiches.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

A selection of the kit that we used climbing each day - Ice axes (Petzl Quarks), crampons (Petzl Lynx), 40l pack, 1l thermos capacity, screamers, screws, abseil-tat, anchor set-up and sandwiches.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Ice climbing requires a surprising amount of equipment. First off there is all the gear to actually climb the ice, then there is the gear to protect the climb, and finally there is all the equipment you wear to stay warm in temperatures potentially below -20C. This article details the equipment we found to be most useful while ice climbing in Canada one January. We were generally climbing 3+ pitch routes, but we also spent some time both cragging and doing longer routes. Conditions varied from -25C (In Maligne Canyon) to 0C (On the Weeping Wall).

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