NZAT Members Killed in Fiordland National Park

Tuesday 25 April 2017, 1:50pm -- Anonymous (not verified)

Conor and Sarwan

Conor and Sarwan

Conor and Sarwan

Creator: 
NZAT

It is with great sadness that we report the passing of two team members Conor Smith and Sarwan Chand. Over the long weekend Conor and Sarwan were climbing in the Darran Mountains (Fiordland). They had been attempting a route on the South Face of Marian Peak. While details of the accident are not yet fully known, we believe, that while climbing, the leader fell before being able to place gear after the belay.  This resulted in a factor 2 lead fall, pulling the team off the wall.  

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A New Alpine Rock Route on Cloudy Peak

Friday 21 April 2017, 10:30am -- Sarwan Chand

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Sarwan and Jack approaching the summit of Cloudy Peak after having completed a new route on the southwest ridge

Creator: 
S. Fortune

The Expedition Climbers Club (ECC) recently organised a rock climbing trip to Cloudy Peak in late February this year with the intention of encouraging alpine rock climbing on new and existing routes. With a reasonable but less than ideal weather forecast, Steve Fortune along with Arthur Lachat and Coco of the French Alpine team headed up to Erewhon late on the evening of the 23rd, armed with a rack, a savage looking machete and several rolls of pink tape.

Climbing Moab's Classic Desert Towers

Sunday 9 April 2017, 10:28am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Alastair on Fine Jade (5.11) on the Rectory

Creator: 
J. Bouchard

After two months of fantastic ice & mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies, finally the seasons were beginning to signal a change, with warm temperatures melting off ice pillars and sending avalanche ratings up to extreme. Colours of Instagram were also transforming, from the white, blue and grey of the alpine to the rich orange and red of the desert. Canadians were flocking southwards to the sandstone splitters of Moab, and I felt compelled to join them.

Cerro Torre - Ragni Route

Thursday 2 March 2017, 2:20am -- daniel.joll

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Ragni Route Cerro Torre

Kim Ladiges on the Ragni Route Cerro Torre , this was taken during a failed attempt where we turned around due to bad weather

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Man Spooning – Verb , two men locked in the spoon position during an alpine bivy.  Depending on the participants, usually a function of age and or temperature, man spooning may take several seconds, minutes or even hours to begin. Once both parties have accepted the terms on their situation, man spooning usually continues until it’s time to start climbing.  It is not common to hear the expression “Lets manspoon” this is usually a silent agreement. 

Scroll to the bottom of this story for a video from this and other previous attempts on the Ragni Route

El Capitan Nose In A Day Beta

Sunday 19 February 2017, 1:42am -- daniel.joll

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The Nose El Capitan Yosemite

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite. Beta for climbing the "Nose In A Day" (NIAD)

The Nose on El Capitan has to be one of the world’s most popular big wall climbs. Climbing the route in traditional big wall style and in particular, climbing the Nose in a day (NIAD) is a popular rite of passage for climbers from around the world.

Independant Climbing & Trekking in the Langtang Valley, Nepal

Wednesday 28 December 2016, 9:37pm -- gemmawilson

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Gemma and Peggy in the lower Langtang valley

Creator: 
Gemma Wilson

North of Kathmandu, bordering Tibet, is the picturesque and highly diverse Lantang Valley. For any outdoor enthusiast this is the ideal location for moderate-challenging trekking, easy peak climbing or hard high altitude climbing all situated in the abundance of Tibetan culture, huge Himalayan peaks, roaring rivers and small villages where you will always feel welcome.

 

Arthurs Pass Ice

Saturday 24 December 2016, 2:44pm -- Sarwan Chand

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Sarwan Chand Pitch 3 Double Blind Philistine Bluffs

The author enjoying phat conditions on P3 of the first ascent of Double Blind, Philistine Bluffs

Creator: 
Ben Ellis

The words “Arthurs Pass” and “ice” are two words most climbers never use in the same sentence. The fact of the matter is, ice routes do exist in the Arthurs Pass area. These routes are often not in the form of semi- transparent blue pillars with easy approaches but instead may be mixed with rock, turf and may be difficult to access. Some climbers often slag off climbing around Arthurs Pass, but the benefits gained from a backyard of Arthurs climbing can quickly silence the staunchest climbing folk.

A New Route on the South-West Buttress of Bruce Peak

Thursday 17 November 2016, 2:22pm -- David Chen

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Creator: 
David Chen

Last summer, David Chen and Tony Burnell headed into the South Temple and climbed a 480-metre long new route on the SW buttress of the impressive Bruce Peak, involving rock climbing up to grade 17 on long run-out slabs that had barely dried from a storm.

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Tears of Papatuanuku (East Face of Mt Talbot)

Monday 7 November 2016, 8:01pm -- conorsmith24

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Steve Fortune on the crux overhanging roof crack pitch

Creator: 
K. Parsons

I’d done several of the classic rock routes up on Moir’s and on the back of Barrier Knob over the past summer months but I’m ashamed to say I’ve done none of the winter routes at all in the Darrans. I was eager to see what it was all about. So with a fairly dry and dismal start to winter, Steven Fortune, Kieran Parsons and myself remained optimistic and headed to Fiordland to catch the last few days of the annual Darrans Winter Meet based out of Homer Hut.

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