Ozymandias Direct - Mt Buffalo

Wednesday 6 April 2016, 7:49pm -- alastair.mcdowell

It all started at the 'Death Stairs', a flight of 250 steps above Coogee beach, Sydney. The endorphins were obviously running rampant after those sweaty laps, because when I asked Michael Mate whether he wanted to join me for an ascent of the infamous big wall aid climb Ozymandias at Mt Buffalo, he said yes straight away. A wise decision on his part? Time would tell. But I was stoked.

Rose Pearson's picture

The Carrington Rouse

Sunday 31 January 2016, 11:41am -- Rose Pearson

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The Carrington Rouse Crux

Rose Pearson climbing the curx on the Carrington Rose, during a winter trip to Chamonix

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Carrington Rouse (originally known as the Rebuffet Terray) is a classic ice and mixed climb on the Aiguille Des Pélerins in the European Alps. With 550m of technical climbing and a close proximity to the mid-station of the Midi lift it makes for a nice winter day-trip from town if you plan to simul-climb it or a 1-day climb if you pitch the cruxes with a bivy before or after at the mid-station. Dan, Kim, Rose and Peter climbed this in thin conditions in late January 2016. We found it to be fun and engaging with a crux just below the routes top-out at the Col des Pélerins. What follows is a quick route description and some gear beta.

The Progeny: A First Ascent of the West Ridge of Percy Smith

Monday 18 January 2016, 11:11pm -- Pete Harris

South West Face of Percy Smith

South West Face of Percy Smith

The South West Face of Percy Smith

Creator: 
Pete Harris

From what is admittedly a very limited amount of experience, there’s one thing about first ascents which stands out to me. Perhaps I do have a shred of paternal instinct and it’s finally kicking in, but in many ways, I find a first ascent to be akin to having a child (again, limited experience). 

It’s a fraught process, into which you invest a significant part of yourself. More than anything, a first ascent is a journey: a formative journey replete with angst, joy, relief and a small shred of pride. 

Summer Alpine Climbing - Aspiring, Douglas & Aoraki

Wednesday 13 January 2016, 11:56pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Setting out on the Grand Traverse of Aoraki/Mt Cook

Creator: 
Michael Eatson
Late spring and early summer often produce fine snow & ice conditions for mountaineering routes on our great peaks. Since the recent trials for the New Zealand Alpine team, the new team members have been busy getting out into the mountains ticking classic routes throughout the Southern Alps. Between them they have racked up ascents of Aspiring, Aoraki, and Douglas, all climbed in superb conditions. One of the core ambitions of the NZ Alpine team is to link up climbing partners keen to go alpine climbing together, and this has certainly been the case over the last few months.

Aoraki South Face - Grand Traverse and Tasman Syme-Silberhorn

Thursday 7 January 2016, 9:34pm -- Reg Measures

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Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman)

Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman). Aoraki/Mt. Cook and Lake Pukaki in the background.

Creator: 
Reg Measures

In early December Reg Measures teamed up with visiting climber Tim Elson to link some classic face and ridge routes in a rapid traverse of New Zealand's two highest peaks. They found excellent conditions on White Dream (S Face of Aoraki/Mt.Cook) and the Syme and Silberhorn Ridges (Mt. Tasman/Horokoau) but slower blue ice conditions on the summit ridges.

Eiger North Face 1938 Route Winter Ascent Beta and Free Topo

Saturday 2 January 2016, 12:10am -- daniel.joll

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Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Eiger North Face is one of the classic alpine routes in the world. Long, steep, committing and a story made famous by books like The White Spider and Clint Eastwoods movie the Eiger Sanction, it is a must do climb for many alpinists. There is much written about the North Face of the Eiger and also some excellent topos available online. I thought however it might be good to share the climbing gear we took with us for a winter ascent.

South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Wednesday 30 December 2015, 11:49am -- jazmorris

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SW Ridge

Gemma Wilson on the SW Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

"One of the classic climbs in the Alps,” says Allan Uren in the Mt Aspiring Guidebook of the South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring. It has been on my ‘top-priority list’ of climbs for an embarrassingly long time, one to do at the first available opportunity. I don’t know why 5 years has gone by since I last went up Mt Aspiring, but it might be that we have so much good climbing in New Zealand and every time a high pressure system comes along, there is too much to choose from.

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