Summer Alpine Climbing - Aspiring, Douglas & Aoraki

Wednesday 13 January 2016, 11:56pm -- alastair.mcdowell


Setting out on the Grand Traverse of Aoraki/Mt Cook

Michael Eatson
Late spring and early summer often produce fine snow & ice conditions for mountaineering routes on our great peaks. Since the recent trials for the New Zealand Alpine team, the new team members have been busy getting out into the mountains ticking classic routes throughout the Southern Alps. Between them they have racked up ascents of Aspiring, Aoraki, and Douglas, all climbed in superb conditions. One of the core ambitions of the NZ Alpine team is to link up climbing partners keen to go alpine climbing together, and this has certainly been the case over the last few months.

Aoraki South Face - Grand Traverse and Tasman Syme-Silberhorn

Thursday 7 January 2016, 9:34pm -- Reg Measures


Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman)

Tim Elson climbing by headtorch on the Syme Ridge (Mt. Tasman). Aoraki/Mt. Cook and Lake Pukaki in the background.

Reg Measures

In early December Reg Measures teamed up with visiting climber Tim Elson to link some classic face and ridge routes in a rapid traverse of New Zealand's two highest peaks. They found excellent conditions on White Dream (S Face of Aoraki/Mt.Cook) and the Syme and Silberhorn Ridges (Mt. Tasman/Horokoau) but slower blue ice conditions on the summit ridges.

Eiger North Face 1938 Route Winter Ascent Beta and Free Topo

Saturday 2 January 2016, 12:10am -- daniel.joll

3rd ice field.JPG

Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Chaz following one of the ice fields Eiger North Face

Daniel Joll

The Eiger North Face is one of the classic alpine routes in the world. Long, steep, committing and a story made famous by books like The White Spider and Clint Eastwoods movie the Eiger Sanction, it is a must do climb for many alpinists. There is much written about the North Face of the Eiger and also some excellent topos available online. I thought however it might be good to share the climbing gear we took with us for a winter ascent.

South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Wednesday 30 December 2015, 11:49am -- jazmorris


SW Ridge

Gemma Wilson on the SW Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Jaz Morris

"One of the classic climbs in the Alps,” says Allan Uren in the Mt Aspiring Guidebook of the South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring. It has been on my ‘top-priority list’ of climbs for an embarrassingly long time, one to do at the first available opportunity. I don’t know why 5 years has gone by since I last went up Mt Aspiring, but it might be that we have so much good climbing in New Zealand and every time a high pressure system comes along, there is too much to choose from.

The Golden Shower

Sunday 13 December 2015, 3:02am -- daniel.joll

piss bottle.JPG

A piss bottle admiring the view of Bugaboo Spire.

Daniel Joll

I feel warmth as it leaves my body. Cold plastic, warmed by a steady stream of 40 degree fluid. On a cold night there is mild relief for my frozen fingers as they firmly wrap around a 1.5L Nelgine come piss bottle. Brett Gilmore a friend from Hawkes Bay first introduced me to the guilty pleasures of the piss bottle in a tent on Mt Ruapehu. At the time I was less than convinced, especially as he was trying to negotiate the confines of a narrow coke bottle mouth, which for anyone who has tried knows, extra care and attention is required.

East Ridge Aoraki/Mt Cook

Sunday 15 November 2015, 7:06pm -- Pete Harris

Level arête East Ridge Aoraki

Level arête East Ridge Aoraki

The authour on the level arête of the East Ridge Aoraki

Richard Measures

For a climb which the guidebook describes as “A classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand…” there’s remarkably little information about the East Ridge of Aoraki/Mt Cook. While there can be something alluring about a little enigma surrounding a climb, there’s also something to be said for some beta on such a route, which hopefully encourages more people to get out there and climb such a stunning line.

NZ Alpine Team members 2016-2019 announced

Thursday 12 November 2015, 11:41am -- jazmorris


The team near Ben Lomond after the hill-run and pack-carry

Jaz Morris

We're stoked to be able to announce the newest members of the New Zealand Alpine Team!

Recently, we requested applications for the NZAT mentoring program from climbers aged 18-25. A number of candidates stood out and 9 were selected for trials held in Queenstown (and Australia). From those, 6 were selected for the team.


NZ Alpine Team 2016-2019 Trials

Monday 19 October 2015, 1:44pm -- jazmorris


Gemma Wilson dry-tooling at the Den of Iniquity

Jaz Morris

On the 17th - 18th of October we held the trials for the 2016-2019 intake for the New Zealand Alpine Team. Nine candidates are competing for three-year mentored positions in the NZAT, and eight of them came from all over New Zealand to meet in Queenstown for a weekend of cardio, climbing and mental assessments. It was the first time we've held trials, having selected the 2013-2016 team based on mountaineering CV and interview alone. We think that the trials were a great way to objectively analyse the applicants, all of whom are climbing at a high level already - and we reckon in a few years the standard for the trials will be even higher!


Tramadol Dreams

Monday 12 October 2015, 1:19pm -- steven.fortune


Ben on Tramadol Dreams, Upper Cirque Creek.

15 months ago I was recovering from surgery repairing my shattered ankle. Painkillers caused insomnia and vivid dreams featuring movie like action sequences with a touch of mythology and other absurdity. I would wake, sweaty, shaken, thinking 'that was a bit weird'.



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