NZ Alpine Team 2016-2019 Trials

Monday 19 October 2015, 1:44pm -- jazmorris

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Gemma Wilson dry-tooling at the Den of Iniquity

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

On the 17th - 18th of October we held the trials for the 2016-2019 intake for the New Zealand Alpine Team. Nine candidates are competing for three-year mentored positions in the NZAT, and eight of them came from all over New Zealand to meet in Queenstown for a weekend of cardio, climbing and mental assessments. It was the first time we've held trials, having selected the 2013-2016 team based on mountaineering CV and interview alone. We think that the trials were a great way to objectively analyse the applicants, all of whom are climbing at a high level already - and we reckon in a few years the standard for the trials will be even higher!

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Tramadol Dreams

Monday 12 October 2015, 1:19pm -- steven.fortune

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Ben on Tramadol Dreams, Upper Cirque Creek.

15 months ago I was recovering from surgery repairing my shattered ankle. Painkillers caused insomnia and vivid dreams featuring movie like action sequences with a touch of mythology and other absurdity. I would wake, sweaty, shaken, thinking 'that was a bit weird'.

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Queenstown Dry Tooling Crags - Pink Palace and Den of Iniquity Topos

Sunday 9 August 2015, 5:22pm -- daniel.joll

Currently there are two established dry tooling crags in Queenstown. Both of these are located at the Kelvin Heights end of the Kelvin Heights - Jacks Point Trail. When walking from Kelvin Heights the first crag you come across is the Den of Iniquity.  It is on the right hand side of the trail as you walk towards Jacks Point overlooking the lake. The top of this crag can be seen when your standing at the second of the green bench seats. As seen below.  It takes arounds ten minutes to reach the Den.  Look for the climbers trail on the right hand side of the crag.

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Zodiac El Capitan. Route Beta and Gear Selection for a hammerless ascent.

Tuesday 30 June 2015, 8:33am -- daniel.joll

Zodiac on El Capitan is a great route to introduce you to the mid grade clean aid climbing. At C3 the route is hard enough to be interesting but not so hard that you should have any major epics. In saying that there are approx 6-7 pitches graded C3 and many of the other pitches are C2 or C2+ so the route is fairly sustained for its grade.

North America Mentoring Trip: Yosemite, Squamish and the Bugaboos

Wednesday 10 June 2015, 10:22am -- daniel.joll

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Looking down the famous Stove Legs crack from the top of pitch 8 on the Nose. Gab Mazure and Conor Smith following this classic pitch.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

An intermittently updated blog recounting Dan, Pete & friends' North America climbing mentoring trip to Yosemite, Squamish, and the Bugaboos

What is this 'Alpine Team' all about: Reminiscing on two years in the Team

Sunday 29 March 2015, 10:51pm -- Pete Harris

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Applications are open for the NZ Alpine Team

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

I’ll never forget that feeling of irrepressible euphoria I felt late one evening in the middle of May 2013, when I received an e-mail from Steven Fortune offering me a place on the New Zealand Alpine Team. I’d always been a bit of a fan boy for top climbers; avidly reading about their exploits in the Climber and Alpine Journals, dreaming that one day, in some parallel universe, I too might be able to do something like them. Needless to say, when Steve noted that the other Christchurch mentors were Jamie, Kester and Reg, I was beyond ecstatic.

Peaking Pete: A Story of Fear and a New Route

Wednesday 25 February 2015, 5:25pm -- Pete Harris

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Daniel Joll on the Barrier-Crosscut Col

Creator: 
Pete Harris

As I sit in my 9 a.m. Biological Chemistry lecture on Monday morning, I can barely grip a pen due to eviscerated finger tips, nor can I focus due to being in the car for the 18 hours prior in order to make my first lecture of the semester. Nonetheless, I’m still beaming from ear to ear from the stunning, (if somewhat insane) three day trip down to the Darrans.

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Rose Pearson's picture

Summer in Chamonix

Monday 26 January 2015, 1:49pm -- Rose Pearson

Some experiences are so much larger than those it precedes, it takes a time before they can be shared. For me, the two weeks I spent climbing in Chamonix with Daniel Joll in August 2014 were such an experience. Not only were the routes we climbed longer and harder than any I had previously climbed, they were also more committing and several were climbed in poor conditions with marginal forecasts. This is why it is only now, 6 months after the end of the trip, that I am finally putting a pen to paper.

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