South Face, Glengyle Peak (2283m)

Monday 2 September 2013, 12:58pm -- jazmorris

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The south face of Glengyle with the Central Gully line marked in red

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

An Otago team have claimed what may be the first ascent of the south face of Glengyle Peak (2283m) in the West Matukituki valley, Mt Aspiring National Park. The route, Central Gully (MC 4-) follows an obvious snow gully in the centre of the face for about 5 pitches to reach the summit ridge about 100m from the summit of Glengyle. NZ Alpine Team member Jaz Morris and a Dunedin friend Alexis Belton climbed the route from a high camp at 2000m on the south ridge of Mt Rob Roy.

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History of the NZ Alpine Team, Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival and the NZ Expedition Capital Fund

Friday 30 August 2013, 10:31am -- daniel.joll

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The Fortress, Torres Del Paine National Park

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Several years ago the question was asked and debated by the New Zealand Alpine Club “the death of alpinism”. Many climbers of yesterday questioned if alpinism in NZ was simply a thing of the past.

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The Remarkables Ice & Mixed Climbing Festival

Wednesday 28 August 2013, 11:18am -- Pete Harris

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Steve Fortune leading the direct finish to Sgian Dubh (M4)

Creator: 
Ari Kingan

It was with some trepidation that I threw every single piece of gear I own, into duffel bags and packs, in preparation for heading down to Queenstown for a week of training with the Team prior to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. From the information which had been circulating, it was clearly going to be an initiation by fire, evidenced by the fact the whole Team had been warned that we were going to be ‘encouraged’ to set new routes around the Remarkables.

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Jamie Vinton-Boot. Partner, Father, Inspiration, Team Member, Mentor

Friday 23 August 2013, 8:26am -- Pete Harris

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Jamie on a first ascent in the Routeburn August 2012 during the first Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival

Creator: 
Jono Clarke

“To have this opportunity is both a privilege and a responsibility. A responsibility to keep the fundamental spirit of alpinism alive – the pursuit of the impossible and the unknown.”

- Jamie Vinton-Boot

As a preface to this piece, I would like to note that I had known Jamie for only a short period, but he made a huge impact on me in such time. My relationship with Jamie barely scratches the surface of an amazing man, and I wish to extend my sincerest condolences to those who knew Jamie best.

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Darrans Winter Meet. New routes in the Darrans sent by NZAT members

Tuesday 20 August 2013, 9:22am -- daniel.joll

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Rose showing the boys how its done.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Several members of the NZAT made the most of average conditions at the recent Darrans Winter Meet, putting up three new routes in the Homer/Macpherson area. Saturday 13 July started clear and cold, promising a good start to the week.

However, finding only thin ice at lower altitudes, NZAT member Ben Dare (Queenstown) went searching for better material. With Danny Murphy and Steve Skelton, he put up a new ice route in the upper Macpherson Cirque 'The Elusive Leprechaun' (III, 5).

Yosemite National Park Camping Beta

Sunday 9 June 2013, 9:53am -- daniel.joll

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El Capitan

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Camping in Yosemite can be a real nightmare. If you plan to arrive during the peak summer season and like most climbers have not reserved your camp site months in advance your maximum stay at Camp Four will likely be seven days.  Park Rangers strictly enforce the 7 day rule.  You can get around it if your lucky but this will envolve a constant game of cat and mouse with the Park Rangers.  Freedom camping is basically not an option in the Valley.

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