Reviews

Saturday 24 March 2018, 10:48pm
daniel.joll

Jetboil in use on Lobouche East regular route high camp.jpg

Kim melting snow with the Jetboil Micro Mo, on Lobouche East regular route, high camp, 5800m

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Kim melting snow with the Jetboil Micro Mo, on Lobouche East regular route, high camp, 5800m

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I have been using Jet Boil stoves for over 12 years.  During this time, I have used most of the common models starting with the Zip, Flash, Mino Mo, Joule, Sol Ti and most recently the Micro Mo.  As a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team I am lucky enough to get the latest models as part of our sponsorship agreement with Jet Boil.  Jet Boil is the stove I have chosen to use long before we had any form of sponsorship from Jet Boil and it would still be my first choice of stove if I had to go and buy a new one in the future. 

Monday 12 March 2018, 8:48am
alastair.mcdowell

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Relaxing halfway up La Esfinge alpine rock wall in Peru with the Salewa Mountain Trainers

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Relaxing halfway up La Esfinge alpine rock wall in Peru with the Salewa Mountain Trainers

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Salewa produce a wide range of mountain footwear, and one of their specialities is approach shoe footwear. Over the past year, Gemma, Alastair and David have each been trialling a different approach shoe in Salewa's range, each excelling at a different level of ruggedness in the alpine continuum. Gemma has been using the Salewa Mountainer Trainer for big walling in Yosemite, Alastair has been using the Salewa Firetail Evo for long approaches around Mount Cook and Patagonia, and David has been using the Salewa for trail running and less rugged approaches in the Arthurs Pass area.

Thursday 25 January 2018, 2:59pm
jazmorris

Julbo Shield

Julbo Shield

Jaz and his big nose rocking the new Julbo Shield glasses

Creator: 
J Morris

Jaz and his big nose rocking the new Julbo Shield glasses

Creator: 
J Morris

All of us in the NZAT were stoked to partner with Julbo NZ recently, and as a result of that partnership we've each been given a pair of Julbo's latest sunnies to try out. Personally, I chose the Shield glasses, which have Julbo's top-of-the-line Chameleon lenses - polarised, antifogging and photochromic ('cat. 2' to 'cat. 4').

Monday 15 January 2018, 1:04pm
daniel.joll

Belay NF Cholatse .jpg

Belay North Face Cholatse

Matt at another cold belay on the North Face of Cholatse

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Matt at another cold belay on the North Face of Cholatse

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Macpac Pulsar Plus concept by – Daniel Joll , review by Matthew Scholes

I was sitting in El Chalten, Patagonia, with Kim Ladiges after a successful but particularly wet and cold ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre. In total we were out for six cold and wet days. Often sleeping in our tent on top of a bed of water. We were talking over our ideas for the perfect synthetic belay jacket. Something that would perform well in cold, damp environments and also had a technical cut allowing you to easily climb while wearing it. We used the Pulsar, but felt we wanted something a bit beefier for cold conditions. The concept for the Pulsar Plus was born from this conversation.

Friday 24 March 2017, 12:05pm
steven.fortune

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Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

There are many alpine rock routes including technical rock climbing, that you want to change into rock shoes for, that you need to carry the shoes you approach in. This is the category this shoe works brilliantly in, that I call approach shoes. Low weight is key here, you don't want to lug your old heavy leather tramping boots up a hard pitch, but they also need to be robust enough to handle a scrambling approach or scree descent that might rip a pair of light fabric trainers to shreds. The Firetail is my favourite shoe in this category. They were light enough to carry up a hard pitch of a new route at Cloudy Peak, robust enough to handle the long scree descent.

Sunday 11 December 2016, 10:51am
Sarwan Chand

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Macpac Lightweight Prophet AP Rain Jacket

The Macpac Prophet- a solid and super reliable jacket.

Creator: 
Sarwan Chand

The Macpac Prophet- a solid and super reliable jacket.

Creator: 
Sarwan Chand

After doing the maths on my trusty old Macpac Paclite jacket and realizing there were more patches than actual jacket, I knew the time had come for a new one. I’ve always had good performance out of Macpac jackets in the past and the Macpac Lightweight Prophet AP Rain Jacket didn’t disappoint. A jacket is one of the most important pieces of clothing for any climber or mountaineer so it’s important to get a reliable one which performs well.

Monday 7 November 2016, 11:56am
conorsmith24

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Pete questing upwards on virgin terrain on the West Ridge of Taulliraju wearing the Macpac Fitzroys

Creator: 
J. Morris

Pete questing upwards on virgin terrain on the West Ridge of Taulliraju wearing the Macpac Fitzroys

Creator: 
J. Morris

If I had to describe the Mac Pac Fitzroy soft shell pants in one word it would be AWESOME. The Fitzroy is Macpac's premier soft shell pant which combines breathable stretch and high water resistant materials that make a well-rounded performing mountaineering and rock climbing pant in cooler conditions. The Fitzroy pants are made of 50D stretch fabric with DWR treatment for water resistance which means they wick water extremely well for a soft shell pant.

Thursday 7 January 2016, 2:20am
daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

For almost three years now I have been climbing with the Tendon Master range of ropes. During this time I have used almost every style from half ropes, light weight single ropes and thick single ropes for big wall climbing. For this review I am going to focus on the 7.8mm Master Half Ropes. These are my favourite ropes for ice and winter alpine climbing. When its time for summer alpine and rock routes I usually move to a pair of 8.5mm Master Half Ropes.

Sunday 19 July 2015, 7:56pm
steven.fortune

Owen near summit De La S.jpg

Owen near the summit of De La S

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Owen near the summit of De La S

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The synthetic puffy insulation jacket is a cornerstone insulation piece. I have had one in my bag for almost every trip I have done in the hills, for almost the last 10 years. It is extremely versatile and useful. It is my choice compared to a fleece or down jacket in most circumstances. It is warmer for the same weight than a fleece, as well as wind and water resistant. A good down jacket can be warmer for the weight, but with a sacrifice of robustness and performance when wet. I originally used one as a 'belay jacket'.

Saturday 20 June 2015, 2:30pm
Reg Measures

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Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

A stiff pair of technical boots is amazing for slashing steps over short sections of snow without needing crampons, confidently edging on rock, or using with technical crampons. Stiff boots are often heavy and cumbersome though. I was looking some light stiff boots for summer climbing when I came across the Salewa Raven Combi.

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