Reviews

Friday 24 March 2017, 12:05pm
steven.fortune

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Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

There are many alpine rock routes including technical rock climbing, that you want to change into rock shoes for, that you need to carry the shoes you approach in. This is the category this shoe works brilliantly in, that I call approach shoes. Low weight is key here, you don't want to lug your old heavy leather tramping boots up a hard pitch, but they also need to be robust enough to handle a scrambling approach or scree descent that might rip a pair of light fabric trainers to shreds. The Firetail is my favourite shoe in this category. They were light enough to carry up a hard pitch of a new route at Cloudy Peak, robust enough to handle the long scree descent.

Sunday 11 December 2016, 10:51am
Sarwan Chand

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Macpac Lightweight Prophet AP Rain Jacket

The Macpac Prophet- a solid and super reliable jacket.

Creator: 
Sarwan Chand

The Macpac Prophet- a solid and super reliable jacket.

Creator: 
Sarwan Chand

After doing the maths on my trusty old Macpac Paclite jacket and realizing there were more patches than actual jacket, I knew the time had come for a new one. I’ve always had good performance out of Macpac jackets in the past and the Macpac Lightweight Prophet AP Rain Jacket didn’t disappoint. A jacket is one of the most important pieces of clothing for any climber or mountaineer so it’s important to get a reliable one which performs well.

Monday 7 November 2016, 11:56am
conorsmith24

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Pete questing upwards on virgin terrain on the West Ridge of Taulliraju wearing the Macpac Fitzroys

Creator: 
J. Morris

Pete questing upwards on virgin terrain on the West Ridge of Taulliraju wearing the Macpac Fitzroys

Creator: 
J. Morris

If I had to describe the Mac Pac Fitzroy soft shell pants in one word it would be AWESOME. The Fitzroy is Macpac's premier soft shell pant which combines breathable stretch and high water resistant materials that make a well-rounded performing mountaineering and rock climbing pant in cooler conditions. The Fitzroy pants are made of 50D stretch fabric with DWR treatment for water resistance which means they wick water extremely well for a soft shell pant.

Thursday 7 January 2016, 2:20am
daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

For almost three years now I have been climbing with the Tendon Master range of ropes. During this time I have used almost every style from half ropes, light weight single ropes and thick single ropes for big wall climbing. For this review I am going to focus on the 7.8mm Master Half Ropes. These are my favourite ropes for ice and winter alpine climbing. When its time for summer alpine and rock routes I usually move to a pair of 8.5mm Master Half Ropes.

Sunday 19 July 2015, 7:56pm
steven.fortune

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Owen near the summit of De La S

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Owen near the summit of De La S

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The synthetic puffy insulation jacket is a cornerstone insulation piece. I have had one in my bag for almost every trip I have done in the hills, for almost the last 10 years. It is extremely versatile and useful. It is my choice compared to a fleece or down jacket in most circumstances. It is warmer for the same weight than a fleece, as well as wind and water resistant. A good down jacket can be warmer for the weight, but with a sacrifice of robustness and performance when wet. I originally used one as a 'belay jacket'.

Saturday 20 June 2015, 2:30pm
Reg Measures

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Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

A stiff pair of technical boots is amazing for slashing steps over short sections of snow without needing crampons, confidently edging on rock, or using with technical crampons. Stiff boots are often heavy and cumbersome though. I was looking some light stiff boots for summer climbing when I came across the Salewa Raven Combi.

Monday 4 May 2015, 3:39pm
Pete Harris

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Daniel Joll with his Salewa Mountain Trainers on the Tyrolean in Patagonia

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Daniel Joll with his Salewa Mountain Trainers on the Tyrolean in Patagonia

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

I’ve been wearing these approach shoes for three months. Usage has included extended bouts of bush-bashing in soaking wet Fiordland jungle; long approaches to single-day rock climbs in the Darrans; multi-day tramping trips on reasonably well-formed tracks, one short transalpine trip involving glacier travel; and general use like going to the crag or the supermarket.

Saturday 28 March 2015, 3:14pm
daniel.joll

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Testing out the new Dash glove on the classic Darrans climb Labyrinth.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Testing out the new Dash glove on the classic Darrans climb Labyrinth.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

It has been several years since I felt Mapac had gloves in their range suitable for alpine climbing.  I am pleased to say this is now changing.  Up until the 2015 season the main Macpac glove that I wore on a regular basis was the Stretch Fleece Glove. This is one of the better base layer fleece gloves I had found. Both the fit and size are perfect for cold approach walks or ski tours.

Thursday 19 March 2015, 9:51pm
Pete Harris

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The authour and his Jetboil on Denali

Creator: 
Ari Kingan

The authour and his Jetboil on Denali

Creator: 
Ari Kingan

In 2012, I lost my Jetboil virginity whilst walking the 30+ kilometres down the Dobson River in torrential rain, wearing plastic boots. Reaching Kennedy Hut, two hunters took pity on us and boiled up some water for a tea. The virtually instant hot water blew my mind; a stark contrast to the rigmarole associated with getting my liquid fuel stove up and cranking.

Friday 27 February 2015, 1:35pm
Rose Pearson

I first used the new Lightweight Prophet Jacket on an ice climbing trip to Canada. To be honest, I hadn’t given much thought to what jacket I brought, as I didn’t expect it to get much action. It turns out, even in temperatures as low as -20°C, Canadian ice is often running with water. Fortunately, the Prophet was more than up to the challenge.

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