Equipment

Salewa Firetail Evo Approach Shoe

Friday 24 March 2017, 12:05pm -- steven.fortune

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Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

There are many alpine rock routes including technical rock climbing, that you want to change into rock shoes for, that you need to carry the shoes you approach in. This is the category this shoe works brilliantly in, that I call approach shoes. Low weight is key here, you don't want to lug your old heavy leather tramping boots up a hard pitch, but they also need to be robust enough to handle a scrambling approach or scree descent that might rip a pair of light fabric trainers to shreds. The Firetail is my favourite shoe in this category. They were light enough to carry up a hard pitch of a new route at Cloudy Peak, robust enough to handle the long scree descent.

Tendon Master 7.8mm Half Rope Review

Thursday 7 January 2016, 2:20am -- daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

For almost three years now I have been climbing with the Tendon Master range of ropes. During this time I have used almost every style from half ropes, light weight single ropes and thick single ropes for big wall climbing. For this review I am going to focus on the 7.8mm Master Half Ropes. These are my favourite ropes for ice and winter alpine climbing. When its time for summer alpine and rock routes I usually move to a pair of 8.5mm Master Half Ropes.

Salewa Raven Combi Goretex mountaineering boots

Saturday 20 June 2015, 2:30pm -- Reg Measures

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Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

A stiff pair of technical boots is amazing for slashing steps over short sections of snow without needing crampons, confidently edging on rock, or using with technical crampons. Stiff boots are often heavy and cumbersome though. I was looking some light stiff boots for summer climbing when I came across the Salewa Raven Combi.

Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws Review

Monday 26 January 2015, 11:49am -- daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll leading the classic Pilsner Pillar WI6

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Aluminum and light weight ice screws have been around for many years in various forms. Early Jeff Lowe models that were in short supply or Russian titanium ones that had a tendency to bend or break saw most climbers steer clear of the light weight screw options.

Alpine Series Pursuit Review - Simplicity at its finest

Friday 12 September 2014, 4:02pm -- daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll leading on the East Face of Torre Egger during the teams first day of climbing for the trip. This attempt was cut short mid morning due to falling ice and warm temperatures. This also was our first time testing the new Alpine Series Pursuit packs.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Over the past 18 months the New Zealand Alpine Team along with Macpac have been developing the ultimate alpine climbing pack.  Light, robust and full of features specifically aimed at those who like to hike, climb or travel light and fast in an alpine environment.  The pack comes in two sizes and two material options.  Its been great to hear the feed back from other climbers around the world when they have seen the new packs.  While loading the new Alpine Series Pursuit onto our glacie

Macpac Hemisphere Tent

Tuesday 9 September 2014, 10:40am -- Pete Harris

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14000 ft Camp

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I dislike living in tents as a rule. Whenever I do trips, I’ll avoid taking a tent at all costs if I can stay in a hut. The condensation, the lack of space, the extra organisation required to make the most of the minimal space, not to mention the weight all deter me from tenting; especially if there’s a hut nearby. Therefore prior to Alaska, the two things I was dreading the most was melting water for every drink or meal, and living in a tent for over a month.

Fast and Light – reflections on featherweight Carabiners, you can actually use.

Thursday 12 September 2013, 12:17pm -- Peter Ramage

I always try to be light in the mountains, not least because I hate carrying a heavy pack, and I’m always keen to shave off a few grams. One really good way I’ve found to do this is to make sure you’re making use of the advances in Carabiner design, and that the ‘biners you chose are the best for your situation. I’ve been nerding out over the lightest ‘biners and draws since I started climbing, and thought I’d share my thoughts about some of the designs out there. It’s very possible to shave as much as half a kilo from your rack, even before you start slimming it down, just by making sure you chose the very best ‘biners for the job

Light Is Right. Saving Weight For Winter Ascents.

Thursday 1 August 2013, 1:14am -- daniel.joll

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The upper wall of the South Face of Marian (Left) and the South Face of Sabre (Right). The lower wall on the SF of Marian approx 300m of steep climbing can not be seen in this photo.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Winter climbing is hard work. In general you are weighted down by extra clothing, heavy boots, deep snow and cold temperatures. In general the tendency is to carry to much. Everyone likes having a safety net around them too some degree. Climbing is a progression. Little by little you unlock parts of the puzzle and progress to the next stage. Clothing and climbing equipment seem to move at about the same speed.

Petzl Nomic - One Axe to Rule Them All

Wednesday 22 May 2013, 8:06pm -- daniel.joll

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Daniel soloing E Tutto Relativo (WI4), Cogne, Italy.

Creator: 
Jonathan Griffith

I have been using the Petzl Nomic in both its original form and the new current model with its serrated blade under the griprest for the past three years. This axe has accompanied me on everything from classic snow faces in the Southern Alps to hard alpine ice and mixed in the Alps and Rockies. It has also been a solid performer on many new routes in the Balfour, Darrens, Alps and Remarkables. If I was going to own only one set of tools then the Petzl Nomic is the axe I would choose. It has one or two faults however overall I have not found a better performer.

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