Reviews

Monday 26 January 2015, 11:49am
daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll leading the classic Pilsner Pillar WI6

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Daniel Joll leading the classic Pilsner Pillar WI6

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Aluminum and light weight ice screws have been around for many years in various forms. Early Jeff Lowe models that were in short supply or Russian titanium ones that had a tendency to bend or break saw most climbers steer clear of the light weight screw options.

Saturday 24 January 2015, 5:16pm
frazer.attrill

The perfect boot? I know this is a bold statement but what is needed from a boot? Comfort, warmth, dexterity, durability, being able to take a technical crampon and cost, fortunately the Trango Extreme has all of these qualities in spades…

Wednesday 14 January 2015, 7:59am
Rose Pearson

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The Sealskinz 'All Purpose Gloves'

Creator: 
Rose Pearson

The Sealskinz 'All Purpose Gloves'

Creator: 
Rose Pearson

I’ve been using the ‘All Season’ Sealskinz Gloves for five months now as my primary set of technical mountaineering gloves and have been very impressed. Although not marketed as a mountaineering glove, I find they meet my needs well over a wide range of conditions and activities.

Friday 12 September 2014, 4:02pm
daniel.joll

First Pitch Torre Egger Attempt.jpg

Daniel Joll leading on the East Face of Torre Egger during the teams first day of climbing for the trip. This attempt was cut short mid morning due to falling ice and warm temperatures. This also was our first time testing the new Alpine Series Pursuit packs.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Daniel Joll leading on the East Face of Torre Egger during the teams first day of climbing for the trip. This attempt was cut short mid morning due to falling ice and warm temperatures. This also was our first time testing the new Alpine Series Pursuit packs.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Over the past 18 months the New Zealand Alpine Team along with Macpac have been developing the ultimate alpine climbing pack.  Light, robust and full of features specifically aimed at those who like to hike, climb or travel light and fast in an alpine environment.  The pack comes in two sizes and two material options.  Its been great to hear the feed back from other climbers around the world when they have seen the new packs.  While loading the new Alpine Series Pursuit onto our glacie

Tuesday 9 September 2014, 10:40am
Pete Harris

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14000 ft Camp

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

14000 ft Camp

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I dislike living in tents as a rule. Whenever I do trips, I’ll avoid taking a tent at all costs if I can stay in a hut. The condensation, the lack of space, the extra organisation required to make the most of the minimal space, not to mention the weight all deter me from tenting; especially if there’s a hut nearby. Therefore prior to Alaska, the two things I was dreading the most was melting water for every drink or meal, and living in a tent for over a month.

Friday 17 January 2014, 2:51am
daniel.joll

Jono BOTHY Bag.jpg

Jono Clarke taking a break at the base of the Supercaneleta Mt Fitz Roy Patagonia. The bothy bag kept us warm and dry while we brewed up in freezing windy weather.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Jono Clarke taking a break at the base of the Supercaneleta Mt Fitz Roy Patagonia. The bothy bag kept us warm and dry while we brewed up in freezing windy weather.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I have been using the Rab 2 person bothy bag for 6 months now. This is the first bothy bag I have ever owned so do not have any good reference when comparing it to how other similar bags work. I can say however how I have found its performance in a variety of alpine situations and how it compares with a standard bivvy bag.

Friday 27 December 2013, 10:30am
Jono Clarke

Macpac Anorak.jpg

Jono Clarke racking up during a climb over Col Standhardt, returning from an attempt on the West Face of Cerro Torre.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Jono Clarke racking up during a climb over Col Standhardt, returning from an attempt on the West Face of Cerro Torre.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

To be honest I was wondering just how long the lightweight material of the Macpac Summit Anorak would last as I thrashed it in Patagonia. I can confirm that I was suitably impressed with the durability and breathability of the 3 layer Event fabric, having forced it against granite rough enough to remove the skin from numerous places on my body. Even after a month of constant use and multiple pitches of chimney climbing the 3 layer Event fabric has held up well.

Monday 7 October 2013, 2:55pm
daniel.joll

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Mammut Nordwand Tl

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Mammut Nordwand Tl

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Mammut does not have a long history of alpine boot making. As such I was nervous about forking over the 450 euros necessary to purchase a pair of the Nordwand TL. What Mammut did have though was plenty of spare cash, and as such purchased Raichle another boot maker with a great reputation for high quality alpine footwear. Raichle had been making alpine boots for over 100 years. With this purchase Mammut almost overnight became a serious player in the alpine footwear market. The Mammut Nordwand Tl, claims to be the lightest, warmest boot in its class.

Thursday 12 September 2013, 12:17pm
Peter Ramage

I always try to be light in the mountains, not least because I hate carrying a heavy pack, and I’m always keen to shave off a few grams. One really good way I’ve found to do this is to make sure you’re making use of the advances in Carabiner design, and that the ‘biners you chose are the best for your situation. I’ve been nerding out over the lightest ‘biners and draws since I started climbing, and thought I’d share my thoughts about some of the designs out there. It’s very possible to shave as much as half a kilo from your rack, even before you start slimming it down, just by making sure you chose the very best ‘biners for the job

Thursday 1 August 2013, 1:14am
daniel.joll

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The upper wall of the South Face of Marian (Left) and the South Face of Sabre (Right). The lower wall on the SF of Marian approx 300m of steep climbing can not be seen in this photo.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

The upper wall of the South Face of Marian (Left) and the South Face of Sabre (Right). The lower wall on the SF of Marian approx 300m of steep climbing can not be seen in this photo.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Winter climbing is hard work. In general you are weighted down by extra clothing, heavy boots, deep snow and cold temperatures. In general the tendency is to carry to much. Everyone likes having a safety net around them too some degree. Climbing is a progression. Little by little you unlock parts of the puzzle and progress to the next stage. Clothing and climbing equipment seem to move at about the same speed.

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