Reviews

Friday 27 December 2013, 10:30am
Jono Clarke

Macpac Anorak.jpg

Jono Clarke racking up during a climb over Col Standhardt, returning from an attempt on the West Face of Cerro Torre.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Jono Clarke racking up during a climb over Col Standhardt, returning from an attempt on the West Face of Cerro Torre.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

To be honest I was wondering just how long the lightweight material of the Macpac Summit Anorak would last as I thrashed it in Patagonia. I can confirm that I was suitably impressed with the durability and breathability of the 3 layer Event fabric, having forced it against granite rough enough to remove the skin from numerous places on my body. Even after a month of constant use and multiple pitches of chimney climbing the 3 layer Event fabric has held up well.

Monday 7 October 2013, 2:55pm
daniel.joll

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Mammut Nordwand Tl

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Mammut Nordwand Tl

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Mammut does not have a long history of alpine boot making. As such I was nervous about forking over the 450 euros necessary to purchase a pair of the Nordwand TL. What Mammut did have though was plenty of spare cash, and as such purchased Raichle another boot maker with a great reputation for high quality alpine footwear. Raichle had been making alpine boots for over 100 years. With this purchase Mammut almost overnight became a serious player in the alpine footwear market. The Mammut Nordwand Tl, claims to be the lightest, warmest boot in its class.

Thursday 12 September 2013, 12:17pm
Peter Ramage

I always try to be light in the mountains, not least because I hate carrying a heavy pack, and I’m always keen to shave off a few grams. One really good way I’ve found to do this is to make sure you’re making use of the advances in Carabiner design, and that the ‘biners you chose are the best for your situation. I’ve been nerding out over the lightest ‘biners and draws since I started climbing, and thought I’d share my thoughts about some of the designs out there. It’s very possible to shave as much as half a kilo from your rack, even before you start slimming it down, just by making sure you chose the very best ‘biners for the job

Thursday 1 August 2013, 1:14am
daniel.joll

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The upper wall of the South Face of Marian (Left) and the South Face of Sabre (Right). The lower wall on the SF of Marian approx 300m of steep climbing can not be seen in this photo.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

The upper wall of the South Face of Marian (Left) and the South Face of Sabre (Right). The lower wall on the SF of Marian approx 300m of steep climbing can not be seen in this photo.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Winter climbing is hard work. In general you are weighted down by extra clothing, heavy boots, deep snow and cold temperatures. In general the tendency is to carry to much. Everyone likes having a safety net around them too some degree. Climbing is a progression. Little by little you unlock parts of the puzzle and progress to the next stage. Clothing and climbing equipment seem to move at about the same speed.

Wednesday 22 May 2013, 8:06pm
daniel.joll

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Daniel soloing E Tutto Relativo (WI4), Cogne, Italy.

Creator: 
Jonathan Griffith

Daniel soloing E Tutto Relativo (WI4), Cogne, Italy.

Creator: 
Jonathan Griffith

I have been using the Petzl Nomic in both its original form and the new current model with its serrated blade under the griprest for the past three years. This axe has accompanied me on everything from classic snow faces in the Southern Alps to hard alpine ice and mixed in the Alps and Rockies. It has also been a solid performer on many new routes in the Balfour, Darrens, Alps and Remarkables. If I was going to own only one set of tools then the Petzl Nomic is the axe I would choose. It has one or two faults however overall I have not found a better performer.

Tuesday 14 May 2013, 7:29pm
daniel.joll

Here is my idea of the perfect light alpine meal. This meal fits very well into one regular sized Jet Boil or 1L pot. I have found it very filling even after a very long day in the mountains. It is light, cheap and covers most of your dietary requirements. I find this meal as filling as two regular dehydrated meals.

Take one pack of your favourite instant noodles. 50g of dried potato flakes, 2 scoops of Raiseys Protein Soup and 25g of chopped nuts, 15-25g of grated parmesan cheese.

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