Expedition Reports

South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Wednesday 30 December 2015, 11:49am -- jazmorris

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SW Ridge

Gemma Wilson on the SW Ridge of Mt Aspiring

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

"One of the classic climbs in the Alps,” says Allan Uren in the Mt Aspiring Guidebook of the South West Ridge of Mt Aspiring. It has been on my ‘top-priority list’ of climbs for an embarrassingly long time, one to do at the first available opportunity. I don’t know why 5 years has gone by since I last went up Mt Aspiring, but it might be that we have so much good climbing in New Zealand and every time a high pressure system comes along, there is too much to choose from.

The Golden Shower

Sunday 13 December 2015, 3:02am -- daniel.joll

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A piss bottle admiring the view of Bugaboo Spire.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I feel warmth as it leaves my body. Cold plastic, warmed by a steady stream of 40 degree fluid. On a cold night there is mild relief for my frozen fingers as they firmly wrap around a 1.5L Nelgine come piss bottle. Brett Gilmore a friend from Hawkes Bay first introduced me to the guilty pleasures of the piss bottle in a tent on Mt Ruapehu. At the time I was less than convinced, especially as he was trying to negotiate the confines of a narrow coke bottle mouth, which for anyone who has tried knows, extra care and attention is required.

Zodiac El Capitan. Route Beta and Gear Selection for a hammerless ascent.

Tuesday 30 June 2015, 8:33am -- daniel.joll

Zodiac on El Capitan is a great route to introduce you to the mid grade clean aid climbing. At C3 the route is hard enough to be interesting but not so hard that you should have any major epics. In saying that there are approx 6-7 pitches graded C3 and many of the other pitches are C2 or C2+ so the route is fairly sustained for its grade.

North America Mentoring Trip: Yosemite, Squamish and the Bugaboos

Wednesday 10 June 2015, 10:22am -- daniel.joll

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Looking down the famous Stove Legs crack from the top of pitch 8 on the Nose. Gab Mazure and Conor Smith following this classic pitch.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

An intermittently updated blog recounting Dan, Pete & friends' North America climbing mentoring trip to Yosemite, Squamish, and the Bugaboos

Canada Ice Climbing 2015

Tuesday 30 December 2014, 12:07pm -- daniel.joll

Canada Ice Climbing Blog - by Jaz Morris and Frazer Attrill

We have included a link to the best photos of the trip below. Even if you are not a Facebook user you can click on the photo selection and see all the photos.  Scoll down the page to see both the FB album and a short video of 10 classic Canadian ice climbs.  Scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see our tips for staying in the Rockies and a gear list we used for the trip. 

 

NZAT Member Killed on Mt Aspiring

Monday 25 August 2014, 7:11pm -- jazmorris

Unfortunately it is with great sadness that we announce that the climber reported killed on Mt Aspiring yesterday was NZ Alpine Team member Ari Kingan, age 21 of Golden Bay. Ari was our good mate, and our thoughts are with his friends and family; our sincere condolences to his family Lea, Ross and Dan.

2014 Darrans Winter Meet

Tuesday 22 July 2014, 10:27am -- jazmorris

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Allan Uren is pretty happy climbing in the "Tunnel of Love"

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

The first twinkle of hoar frost came just at the entrance to the Eglinton. The full moon lit the peaks with a silvery glow of snow on the tops and ice on the valley floor. Winter had come to the mountains, and a well-timed high-pressure system coincided with the annual Darrans Winter Climbing Meet at Homer Hut. However, I’d only managed to scrape three days off work, had left town late, and I was driving late in the night and was desperate to get some sleep before the next day’s climb.

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