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The Man Who Lives In The Mountains, Welcome Home - Poems by Tui Kraal

Thursday 18 September 2014, 9:27am -- daniel.joll

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Soaking up the Alaskan scenery high up on the West Rib of Denali

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

The man who lives in the mountains is free.

He must be, if he is to go beyond the reaches of the forest, and find his path to the summit.

The man who lives in the mountains is determined.

He pushes through with gritted teeth and an icy beard, because he knows what richness will reward him at the top.

The man who lives in the mountains is patient.

He has to retrace his steps a thousand times over, taking two forward and one back.

The man who lives in the mountains is honest.

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New Route on the South-East Face of Ferintosh Peak

Sunday 27 July 2014, 3:07pm -- bendare

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The South-East face of Ferintosh Peak with the route climbed marked.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

New route on the South-East Face of Ferintsoh Peak (2497m). The route starts up steep ice through the lower rock band, slightly right of centre, before following a vague gully system to finish just right of the crest of the main buttress. 450m, WI4-, M4, alpine grade MC5. Ben Dare solo 8th July 2014

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South Face East Twin Second Ascent

Monday 10 March 2014, 3:59pm -- daniel.joll

Queenstown is the ideal location to live as a climber in NZ.  Close enough to all the major South Island alpine climbing destinations it is perfect for taking advantage of short weather windows and maximising your weekend adventures.  Ben Dare and I left home at 6am on Saturday morning with high hopes of a climb on the South Face of Barrier Peak.  We were expecting overnight showers to have cleared by the time we reached Homer Hut.  Unfortunately this was not the case and light rain greeted us on our arrival.  

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The Climbing Space!

Thursday 6 March 2014, 8:37am -- daniel.joll

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Steve mid morning during our ascent of the Supercaneleta on Fitz Roy. The temperature was somewhere between -15 & -20 our water bottles all froze solid, with one Nelgine splitting from the water freezing inside!

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Climbing Space!

To succeed in Patagonia, you must take a chance,
you can’t just sit waiting, your head bowed and cast.
Don’t get in a twist, don’t walk down that path,
just go day by day, then climb hard, light and fast.

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First ascent – Somnus North-East Buttress Solo

Monday 17 February 2014, 11:27pm -- bendare

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Great climbing on the North-East Buttress of Somnus.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

North-East Buttress, 700m, 15/16, first ascent.

Something really struck home with me while reading an article by Jane Morris in the recent 2013 New Zealand Alpine Journal. In particular her closing sentence – “Doorstep adventures: make the most of them wherever you live.”

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South Face of Nazomi - New Route

Tuesday 4 February 2014, 9:55am -- bendare

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The south faces of Aoraki/Mt Cook (left) and Nazomi (right) with the new route climbed marked in red.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

The spring of 2013 will not be remembered for its sustained periods of settled weather. Instead much like the winter that preceded it, it was dominated by warmer than normal temperatures and frequent squally frontal systems. What few clear spells that did come through were short lived and often directly followed heavy snow falls. This all coupled together to make for less than ideal climbing conditions.

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Wellington to Cathedral rocks and back - A 24 hour full value trip

Wednesday 23 October 2013, 3:30pm -- Mike Buchanan

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Cathedral Rocks (Matihao south face)

Creator: 
Graham Johnson

Last weekend the weather planet aligned and Jono Clarke, Graham Johnson and I made a trip to Cathedral Rocks (Matihao south face), Mt Ruapehu. I’d never been there before but had heard about it and was excited at the prospect. We left Wgtn at 2am Saturday bound for Whakapapa. After a rendezvous with Graham we strolled up to the summit plateau (+ 1000m) and meandered our way around to Cathy rocks. Despite being late spring with a high freezing level, we found ice with good hoon potential.  Never mind that though - we had our eyes on the real prize i.e.

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Unclimbed lines and faces close to Mt Cook Village

Thursday 19 September 2013, 11:54am -- daniel.joll

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West Face Pibrac with The Shaft marked in Red. The true summit is along the West Ridge and not in this shot. It is around 12 pitches from the base to the high point of this photo where the route joins the West Ridge.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Rob Frost has provided me with some great inspiration in the last two months. Firstly at the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival with his talk on their expedition to White Wave and the unclimbed mountains surrounding the peak. Then again in the latest issue of Climber and all the info he shared on easy unclimbed alpine routes in NZ. So I thought that I would follow his lead it and share a bit of information on unclimbed lines we spotted last weekend.

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