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First ascent – Somnus North-East Buttress Solo

Monday 17 February 2014, 11:27pm -- bendare

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Great climbing on the North-East Buttress of Somnus.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

North-East Buttress, 700m, 15/16, first ascent.

Something really struck home with me while reading an article by Jane Morris in the recent 2013 New Zealand Alpine Journal. In particular her closing sentence – “Doorstep adventures: make the most of them wherever you live.”

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South Face of Nazomi - New Route

Tuesday 4 February 2014, 9:55am -- bendare

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The south faces of Aoraki/Mt Cook (left) and Nazomi (right) with the new route climbed marked in red.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

The spring of 2013 will not be remembered for its sustained periods of settled weather. Instead much like the winter that preceded it, it was dominated by warmer than normal temperatures and frequent squally frontal systems. What few clear spells that did come through were short lived and often directly followed heavy snow falls. This all coupled together to make for less than ideal climbing conditions.

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Wellington to Cathedral rocks and back - A 24 hour full value trip

Wednesday 23 October 2013, 3:30pm -- Mike Buchanan

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Cathedral Rocks (Matihao south face)

Creator: 
Graham Johnson

Last weekend the weather planet aligned and Jono Clarke, Graham Johnson and I made a trip to Cathedral Rocks (Matihao south face), Mt Ruapehu. I’d never been there before but had heard about it and was excited at the prospect. We left Wgtn at 2am Saturday bound for Whakapapa. After a rendezvous with Graham we strolled up to the summit plateau (+ 1000m) and meandered our way around to Cathy rocks. Despite being late spring with a high freezing level, we found ice with good hoon potential.  Never mind that though - we had our eyes on the real prize i.e.

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Unclimbed lines and faces close to Mt Cook Village

Thursday 19 September 2013, 11:54am -- daniel.joll

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West Face Pibrac with The Shaft marked in Red. The true summit is along the West Ridge and not in this shot. It is around 12 pitches from the base to the high point of this photo where the route joins the West Ridge.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Rob Frost has provided me with some great inspiration in the last two months. Firstly at the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival with his talk on their expedition to White Wave and the unclimbed mountains surrounding the peak. Then again in the latest issue of Climber and all the info he shared on easy unclimbed alpine routes in NZ. So I thought that I would follow his lead it and share a bit of information on unclimbed lines we spotted last weekend.

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The Shaft, WI4, MC5-, 560m. First Ascent, West Face Pibrac.

Monday 16 September 2013, 10:14am -- daniel.joll

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Steve passing the crux of the Shaft. Excellent vertical ice with the odd bulge.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

"I'm here and I'm excited!"  Steve's plane must have landed and he's txting me to remind me im running a bit late.  I'm excited as well.  I haven't really been climbing with Steve for almost three months.  We have a few weekends set aside before our Patagonia expedition and are many plans for unclimbed lines we hope to try.  Our first objective being the South Face of Marian.  However some massive avalanches have cut the road off and its not looking like it will open until Saturday afternoon.  That's too late for us, I have to be on a flight to Hawkes Bay for work 3.30pm Monday.

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Rose Pearson's picture

Reflections of a Tramping Accident

Wednesday 4 September 2013, 9:29pm -- Rose Pearson

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The four fractures on Rose Pearson's Pelvis as a result of her fall while tramping

Creator: 
Rose Pearson

On July 30th 2013 my brother and I suffered a nasty accident while tramping. We both fell while descending from Zit Saddle on day two of a four day tramp inland of Hokitika. Our intended route was Cedar Flats to Adventure Biv to Zits Saddle to Top Kokatahi Hut to Top Crawford Hut to Lathrop Saddle to Browning Range Bivouac to Grassy Flat Hut to the Styx car park. We were left unable to perform a self rescue. This is an account of the accident, the ensuring 5 days and nights before we were rescued by SAR West Coast, our recovery and a quick analysis of how we got ourselves into such a nasty situation.

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Mixed Climbing, Dry Tooling, Winter Alpinism and a few disgruntled Queenstown locals

Monday 2 September 2013, 9:06pm -- daniel.joll

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Matthew Scholes cranking at the 2012 Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival

Creator: 
Mark Watson

Firstly for those who are wondering just what is mixed climbing, dry tooling or for that matter ice and snow climbing is here is a short run down.

 

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South Face, Glengyle Peak (2283m)

Monday 2 September 2013, 12:58pm -- jazmorris

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The south face of Glengyle with the Central Gully line marked in red

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

An Otago team have claimed what may be the first ascent of the south face of Glengyle Peak (2283m) in the West Matukituki valley, Mt Aspiring National Park. The route, Central Gully (MC 4-) follows an obvious snow gully in the centre of the face for about 5 pitches to reach the summit ridge about 100m from the summit of Glengyle. NZ Alpine Team member Jaz Morris and a Dunedin friend Alexis Belton climbed the route from a high camp at 2000m on the south ridge of Mt Rob Roy.

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History of the NZ Alpine Team, Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival and the NZ Expedition Capital Fund

Friday 30 August 2013, 10:31am -- daniel.joll

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The Fortress, Torres Del Paine National Park

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Several years ago the question was asked and debated by the New Zealand Alpine Club “the death of alpinism”. Many climbers of yesterday questioned if alpinism in NZ was simply a thing of the past.

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