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The war against the wobble: Fixing loose heads in Petzl Nomics

Friday 28 August 2020, 11:25pm -- sooji.clarkson

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

An issue well known to Petzl Nomics (and some other models of ice axe) is the tendency for the heads to loosen and develop movement over time. This is mostly due to the design – the head of the axe is held in by a single rivet. Over time the press fit between the head and the shaft gets looser. As there is only a single rivet the head can rotate around this and the overall effect is a wobbly or moving head.

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Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival instructor’s wrap party: Tititea/Aspiring South West Ridge

Wednesday 19 August 2020, 6:25pm -- sooji.clarkson

Descending the SWR Tititea

Descending the SWR Tititea

Descending the SWR Tititea

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

The lead up to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival is always an intensely satisfying, full on week for the NZAT. Day after day we head up the mountain, getting in a wide variety of different climbing partners and climbing styles. By virtue of being up there every day, as the weather changes through the week we also often climb in a wide range of conditions.

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New route Tititea/Aspiring South Face: Kia rapu i tõku māramatanga [Seeking the Light]

Tuesday 4 August 2020, 4:32pm -- sooji.clarkson

Gavin Lang Photography-3890.jpg

Headed for the light at the top

Headed for the light at the top

Creator: 
Gavin Lang

A couple of days of high pressure were forecast; the weather window looked like it was wide enough to sneak through on Tuesday. Gavin sent out a call – could anyone make it down for a climb? As the forecast updated however, the incoming cold front looked set to sweep through sooner than we’d thought. Early on Saturday morning we decided to shift the climb a day sooner to match. I had to get down to Wanaka! I cancelled my Saturday plans and quickly rolled out of bed, threw an assortment of gear in my overworked car and hit the road. Objective: the South Face of Tititea/Aspiring.

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2020

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:30pm -- jazmorris

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Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Creator: 
JM

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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'Antics' - new route on the South Face of Mt Joffre

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:29pm -- jazmorris

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics' South Face Mt Joffre

Creator: 
JM

Team member Jaz Morris along with Ruari Macfarlane and Maddy Whittaker recently made the first recorded ascent of an often-looked-at line on the south face of Joffre Peak in the West Matukituki Valley.

Going at grade 5, III (WI4 crux) and seven 60-70 m pitches (450 m total) in length, the route “Antics” makes a great direct approach to Colin Todd Hut! The route name references the annual journal of the Otago University Tramping Club (of which Maddy and Jaz have both been President) and the long connection of the OUTC to the valley.

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Mt Hicks South Face - The Curver

Tuesday 21 July 2020, 12:12pm -- ben.mangan

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Empress Hut and the South Face of Mt Hicks

Creator: 
A. McDowell

The faces were looking dry as Alastair and I made the journey up the Hooker Valley – as we picked our way through the rocky moraine we were quietly hoping that there would be some ice on the South Face of Hicks for us to climb. We weren’t disappointed with what we found!

When Al suggested a trip into Empress Hut, I jumped at the idea, keen to use the ice climbing skills I had picked up during the team trip to Canada in February.

Copper Point New Route - Straight outta lock down

Friday 29 May 2020, 11:20am -- daniel.joll

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Merry stepping out of lock down onto pitch 1

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb.  Straight out of lock down is 175m long and has some excellent overhanging crack climbing on solid rock.  

If you enjoy trad climbing this is something worth checking out. 

Click the link below for a full topo and route beta pdf. 

 

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Change is coming

Tuesday 28 January 2020, 2:02pm -- daniel.joll

Fitz Roy Sunset.jpg

Fitz Roy Sunset.

Sun set over Mt Fitz Roy, Patagonia. As a storm fast approaches.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently.  We are in the process of a generational change. 

Like a small wave lapping at your ankles, the next generation often arrives relatively unnoticed.  As the years pass, the wave grows stronger, before you know it a large breaker simply pushes past you and there you have it, here they are.

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