Copper Point New Route - Straight outta lock down

Friday 29 May 2020, 11:20am -- daniel.joll

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Merry stepping out of lock down onto pitch 1

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb.  Straight out of lock down is 175m long and has some excellent overhanging crack climbing on solid rock.  

If you enjoy trad climbing this is something worth checking out. 

Click the link below for a full topo and route beta pdf. 

 

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Change is coming

Tuesday 28 January 2020, 2:02pm -- daniel.joll

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Fitz Roy Sunset.

Sun set over Mt Fitz Roy, Patagonia. As a storm fast approaches.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently.  We are in the process of a generational change. 

Like a small wave lapping at your ankles, the next generation often arrives relatively unnoticed.  As the years pass, the wave grows stronger, before you know it a large breaker simply pushes past you and there you have it, here they are.

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Rose Pearson's picture

Pilgrim - including route beta

Friday 10 January 2020, 10:34pm -- Rose Pearson

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The view West from Aoraki summit

The view West from Aoraki summit. Low lands hugged in cloud.

Creator: 
Rose Pearson

Papatūānuku shifts imperceptibly in her sleep. Far above, a man stumbles. He is strong, but on this occasion he falls. The snow beneath him begins its slow slide. It gathers pace. Oblivion. She notices not; but for those close to him, their lives change forever. They wander grieving on this earth, alone, and in groups, seeking out his scent that lingers in the places he frequented.

Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta

Friday 29 November 2019, 2:16pm -- daniel.joll

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Daniel sending the Enduro Corner during Caro and his ascent of Free Rider.

Creator: 
John McCune

In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was my second attempt on Free Rider with Jon. Earlier in the year my first attempt ended with a dislocated shoulder in the offwidth above El Cap Spire. We were sorting our haul bags and having a quick chat with Adam Ondra who was doing a photo shoot. We had just finished our attempt on Free Rider which had gone well but ultimately we had both fallen a couple of times. Adam asked me dead pan: "Why didn’t you just try again?" I laughed, we did!

Trailpinism

Saturday 21 September 2019, 4:04am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Running shorts and running shorts on a mountain summit?

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Imagine yourself jogging up the Matukituki Valley with a 3kg pack, cresting Bevan Col, donning light crampons on your running shoes across the Bonar Glacier, taking a late morning snack at Colin Todd, scrambling the Northwest ridge of Aspiring, and ripping it all the way back to the car in time for dinner in Wanaka. Welcome to the exciting world of Trailpinism: combining trail running gear, tactics and efficiency with mountain craft for a new way of tackling higher peaks.

Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.
 

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019

Wednesday 24 July 2019, 3:46am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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Peru 2019 - Cordillera Blanca

Thursday 27 June 2019, 10:23am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Meri Simms climbing the summit slopes of Ishinca in Peru's Cordillera Blanca

Creator: 
Matt Scholes

Peru and the Cordillera Blanca must have the most easily accessed 6000m peaks in the world. It’s possible to be at a base camp for a peak the same day you leave town. It’s also a cheap country to travel in and climbing requires no peak fees. The dry winter season also has stable weather giving us a good chance of getting up high.

King Cobra - Alaskan Big Wall Free Climbing

Sunday 16 June 2019, 12:55pm -- alastair.mcdowell

Kim splitter

Kim Ladiges firing up an off-fingers splitter crack on Mount Barrill in Alaska's Ruth Gorge

Creator: 
John Price

Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of neighbouring Mount Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack Gravel” of the Ruth Gorge.

I’m balanced on an arete well above my last piece. I reach for a pecker piton and weld it into a thin crack with my free hand, tightening my crimp on the other. I launch into the corner above, loaded with tottering loose flakes.

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