Tips for Avalanche Transceiver Rescue

Thursday 12 August 2021, 12:16pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Avalanche transceiver practice

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Avalanche training is very important for anyone who ventures into the snow. Below are some tips on avalanche transceiver rescue from Wanaka SAR ranger and NZAT veteran advisor, Lionel Clay.

1. Know your transceiver

Practice with your transceiver. Every transceiver works differently. Research your model of transceiver to understand its range, flagging modes and interference with other electronics. Know how long the battery will last and carry spare batteries if necessary.

2. Keep your phone away from your transceiver

The Dreamliner Airport Wall Milford Sound

Saturday 8 May 2021, 9:49am -- daniel.joll

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Daniel on pitch 7 (26)

Creator: 
Llewellyn Murdoch

Free at last, free at last. I could sense James summoning the words of Martin Luther king as he dreamed of finally leaving the hanging belay at the base of pitch 8.  After six days potentially waiting, belaying, climbing, camping on the wall and enduring some wet cold suffer bivies he could finally return to the ground.  The free ascent was now complete and we could say goodbye to the Sky Couch bivy our home for the past week.   

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Big Wall Training Trip 2021

Sunday 11 April 2021, 9:14pm -- James.Hobson

Big Wall 2021

Big Wall 2021

Camp set up for three.

Creator: 
James Hobson

Yosemite here we come.
Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team’s training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies in 2020. Well, not according to COVID-19, bummer what should we do now? Lucky enough we have our very own version of The Chief or Half Dome right in our back yard.
The Airport Wall, in the Milford Sound, just out the plane window under Barren Peak. With the recent establishment of ‘The Mile High Club’ perfect for our big wall training trip, we wouldn’t even have to book plane tickets.

Evolution of the Arthurs Pass to Mount Cook Traverse

Sunday 17 January 2021, 7:21pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Heading up the Waimakariri River to begin the traverse

Creator: 
S. Spector

"Many Canterbury men know that a tough trans-alpine crossing can be a harder test of competence in unorthodox travel and stubborn endurance than a deal of high climbing" - John Pascoe, one of the fore-fathers of early Southern Alps exploration, in Unclimbed New Zealand, 1939.

Mile High Club 700m, 22 pitches,26-27 , Airport Wall, Milford Sound

Sunday 8 November 2020, 4:19pm -- daniel.joll

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Steve Fortune on pitch 21 during the first one day free ascent of the Mile High Club. Nov 2020.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Short approach, many pitches, interesting and challenging climbing.  Personally when it came to climbing in NZ I had always hoped I could either climb or develop a true big wall style route.  While we have many nice granite cliffs in NZ most of them require a long approach and many do not have sustained climbing throughout.  Being a bit lazy in terms of walking 6-10 hours for 300-500m of climbing I often found myself lacking inspiration as I searched through guide books and maps looking for a new climbing challenge.  When it comes to rock climbing I love long climbs with short approaches, t

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sooji.clarkson's picture

Variations on a Theme: alternate versions of classic routes on Aoraki and Mt Dixon

Sunday 1 November 2020, 6:56am -- sooji.clarkson

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

It seemed like the first reasonable break in the weather for weeks. I'd like to call the response an orderly mobilisation of the troops, or maybe it was more like the first week out of COVID-19 lockdown; a rush to line up at burger joints and takeaways, a line headed up the Hooker to Empress Hut, and Gavin and I joining in line with three other skiers up to Plateau Hut. We had an excess of cabin fever to sweat out, solid looking snow conditions, and weather up our sleeves to look at more than a few possibilities.

 

 

Mt Hicks South Face - The Curver

Monday 26 October 2020, 4:33pm -- James.Hobson

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The author approaching the summit of Mt Hicks

Creator: 
Lionel Clay

More like the Learning Curver ! Lighter packs and a better looking weather window had myself and Lionel walking up the Hooker for the second time in a couple of months with the South face of Hicks on our minds. After seeing the epic trip Al and Ben had we just wanted to go and check it out for ourselves!

sooji.clarkson's picture

New route Mt DArchiac South Face: Lust

Tuesday 13 October 2020, 11:38pm -- sooji.clarkson

South Face of Mt D'Archiac

South Face of Mt D'Archiac

George skinning towards the South Face of Mt D'Archiac

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

Accompanied by Elliot and Luke doing all sorts of things I would never have guessed you could (or should?) do in a stock standard Grand Vitara, the sunny, braided, Godley river valley passed by in a rocky montage of dotterels, geese, paradise ducks, and the inevitable ever-present grey and orange rocks. On reaching the lake at the head of the valley, we portaged gear across this last undriveable stretch and settled comfortably into Godley Hut. 

Southern Alps Ski Traverse

Friday 9 October 2020, 7:40pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Crossing Terra Nova Pass into the Godley Glacier

Creator: 
A. McDowell

The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya cancelled, the lockdown forced us to consider how we could exert an expedition-scale effort here in our backyard, the Southern Alps.

Tips and Tricks for Ground Up Lead Bolting

Wednesday 30 September 2020, 11:33am -- daniel.joll

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The Kaipo Wall , Fiordland NZ. Many unclimbed lines are waiting on this wall for future generations of climbers.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Developing new routes is a highly rewarding and often time consuming activity. Motivations for doing it range from from the personal challenge of opening big lines on unclimbed walls to developing your local crag. Personally I have usually decided to open a new route when I am looking for my own challenge rather than the desire to establish routes for others to climb. I really enjoy the excitement of running it out above my gear on unclimbed terrain, not knowing what's coming next. For me this is the most challenging form of climbing where you can put your skills to the test.

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