In the saturated and expensive market of high-tech sneakers for climbers, called ‘approach shoes,’ one model has for several years stood out in terms of durability and utility. In partnership with Bobo Products, the New Zealand importer of Salewa, I recently got my hands (or feet) on some new Salewa Mountain Trainer IIs. Not that I needed to: my 5 year old pair still looks almost new, despite considerable abuse. Nevertheless, the new model has received a few upgrades and improvements, and at the outset of this review I’ll simply say that they are great (you can stop reading now if you wish).
Les Drus is the most impressive granite monolith overlooking the Chamonix Valley. Often you will catch a glance of the intimidating, dark rock peak from the opposite sunny side of the valley, and its a wonder that this face would be so alluring. This winter in Chamonix has been unusually dry, the mountains are devoid of ice, every new snow fall brings dry snow that fattens the ski-fields, but blows off the steep mountain faces. So instead of lamenting it, we embraced it, and set about blunting our tools and crampons on 850m of granite dry tooling up the North Face of the Petit Dru.
The size and weight of your pack can have almost as much impact of your chances of success on a climb as your level of fitness and skill.
In this review Jaz Morris discusses what he's learnt about different models of offset cams during a long season trad climbing on North American granite. We couldn't find any comparison reviews on the internet so we hope this will fill a bit of a gap!
In mid-September 2018 I teamed up with Tim Elson, a member of the newly invigorated Alpine Climbing Group in the UK, for an expedition to the Brammah Glacier in Jammu and Kashmir, India. We'd identified two amazing looking objectives: the 1600m high North Spur of a 6100m peak called Flat Top, and the South Face of the Kishtwar Eiger, a peak various recorded as somewhere between 5600m and 6000m depending on the map.
‘The Promise’ Grade VI, 6+ (WI4, M5+, A0), 700m.
On the Southwest Face of Mt Percy Smith (2465m), solo first ascent, Ben Dare, October 7, 2018.
The New Zealand Alpine Team are proud to announce that Tim Macartney-Snape, Lionel Clay and Allan Uren will be joining the NZAT in an Advisory Mentor role.
Tim, Lionel and Allan are three of Australasia’s most accomplished alpine climbers. They each have a wealth of experience spanning a number of decades, and the knowledge and expertise that they will bring to the NZAT is invaluable.
The Integral ridge spanning the Flames De Pierre to Aiguille Verte should be one of the iconic Chamonix alpine climbs. Over the course of 5 days, Daniel Joll, Chris Warner and Alastair McDowell traversed the granite skyline ridge connecting Les Flammes de Pierre, Les Drus, Aiguille Sans Nom and Aiguille Verte, descending via the Moine Ridge to Couvercle Refuge.
The Ministry of Silly Walks - MC5+, WI4, M4, 800m
Rose Pearson and Sam Waetford have followed in Caleb and Kim's foot steps to climb another new route on the Sheila face of Mount Cook. Rose and Sam had been watching the weather hoping the high would continue through the weekend as Sam wasn't flying in from Australia till midday on Friday. They had three days before the weather broke, and decided to aim for the Sheila after hearing it was in good condition from Kim and Caleb on the way down to MCNP.
We are excited to announce that NZAT members Caleb Jennings and Kim Ladiges have climbed what is arguably the last plum unclimbed line on Aoraki Mount Cook.
Caleb and Kim left Empress hut around midnight on the 5th of September arriving back to Empress 24 hours later having completed the first ascent of the direct line. They named the route "Pilgrim", which goes at a grade of MC6, WI5, M6, 750M. The crux pitch involved a difficult detached ice pillar, with steep moves pulling over a small roof bulge.