Unclimbed lines and faces close to Mt Cook Village

Thursday 19 September 2013, 11:54am -- daniel.joll

West Face Pibrac with The Shaft marked in Red. The true summit is along the West Ridge and not in this shot. It is around 12 pitches from the base to the high point of this photo where the route joins the West Ridge.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Rob Frost has provided me with some great inspiration in the last two months. Firstly at the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Climbing Festival with his talk on their expedition to White Wave and the unclimbed mountains surrounding the peak. Then again in the latest issue of Climber and all the info he shared on easy unclimbed alpine routes in NZ. So I thought that I would follow his lead it and share a bit of information on unclimbed lines we spotted last weekend.

Last weekend while climbing Pibrac with Steve Fortune we spotted a huge amount unclimbed lines including whole unclimbed faces on easy to reach peaks. We didn’t have a copy of the Mt Cook guide with us on the weekend, and our climb on Pibrac was simply following the best looking line we could see in the area. We found out it was a new route when we got back to Guy’s house on Sunday evening. I was really surprised at how these easy to reach peaks were so un developed. All of the climbs shown with the exception of the long ridges on Nazomie could be done by most teams in a fast long day from Mt Cook Village. Most have safe approaches and easy descents.

Pibrac West Face NZAT.jpg

West Face of Pibrac with The Shaft in red. Yellow lines show potential variations or unclimbed lines. There are also lots of good options for easy routes to the left on the North Face. There could be a few summer rock routes on this face as well but we found it much nicer climbing the potentially loose rock on the ridges while it was frozen together with some snow and ice.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

West Face of Pibrac with The Shaft in red. Yellow lines show potential variations or unclimbed lines. There are also lots of good options for easy routes to the left on the North Face. There could be a few summer rock routes on this face as well but we found it much nicer climbing the potentially loose rock on the ridges while it was frozen together with some snow and ice.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Firstly the South Faces of Pibrac and Mt Turner appear to have no recorded ascents. These look to be great introductory South Faces with grade 3-4 climbing. The descent down the North Face or North Ridge on Pibrac takes about 10 minutes and without pushing to hard we managed to be back at our car in four and a half hours from the summit of Pibrac. I think the descent from Turner would be of a similar time. We also spotted allot of potential West Facing ice lines on Pibrac. The photo below shows just some of the options. There are many more. In general the South Face of Nazomi is not climbed out. Some good hard variations are to be found and we also spotted some great ice lines linking to the main West Ridge lower down on the South Face.

Nazomie, Pibrac, Turner NZAT South Faces and Lower Ice Route.jpg

Full line on Nazomi showing the lower ice line and ridge route. The other faces are the unclimbed South Faces of Pibrac and Turner.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Full line on Nazomi showing the lower ice line and ridge route. The other faces are the unclimbed South Faces of Pibrac and Turner.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The main ice line we thought looked in good condition can be accessed from the lower Mona Glacier. To claim the first ascent I believe you need to summit which will involve a long ridge traverse to the top of Nazomi. This line would make a great two day return trip from Cook Village. The final and harder ice line we snapped a shot of started right off the white ice on the Hooker Glacier. It looks to have two tiers to climb with the lower one being the crux. You would then follow another long ridge to the summit of Nazomi. A great two day weekend trip.

NAZT Nazomie.jpg

The left line is a potential steep ice line right off the white ice on the Hooker Glacier. The right hand line is the ice gully to ridge on Nazomi.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

The left line is a potential steep ice line right off the white ice on the Hooker Glacier. The right hand line is the ice gully to ridge on Nazomi.

Creator: 
Steve Fortune

Close Up Nazomie NZAT.jpg

Close up of the start of the ice line on Nazomi. This line starts low down on the Mona Glacier. To fully complete the new route you would have to finish the long ridge up to the summit. The combination would make a great two day trip from Cook village. Leave early Saturday morning, climb the ice and then bivy on the ridge. Sunday along to the summit and descent to Gardiner then back to Cook village.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Close up of the start of the ice line on Nazomi. This line starts low down on the Mona Glacier. To fully complete the new route you would have to finish the long ridge up to the summit. The combination would make a great two day trip from Cook village. Leave early Saturday morning, climb the ice and then bivy on the ridge. Sunday along to the summit and descent to Gardiner then back to Cook village.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

 

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Comments

Submitted by steven.fortune on

The left hand line you show on Nazomi tops out on p2560, which can be easily descended to the Noeline Glacier without going up to Nazomi (that ridge is loong).

The Sth Face of Turner Peak can be accessed from Ball Pass,and could well have had an ascent, looks nice though! You could do the weekend double header and link the Sth Face Turner into Sth Face Pibrac. Or the triple and link into Nazomi. Or get your 80's French enchainment groove on and link into Sth Face of Cook...

Submitted by Peter Dickson on

The rock rib on Pibrac left of your ice and mixed route was done in a day by Bryan Moore and myself but we didn't report it then because it wasn't important.