Climbing Dasler Pinnacles - Hopkins Valley

Thursday 7 November 2019, 9:56pm -- ben.mangan
Dasler Pinnacles Hopkins Valley
Creator: 
Ben Mangan
Ben Mangan, Lionel Clay, James Hobson
 
With the freezing level rapidly rising all over the Southern Alps – it was time to grab the climbing shoes and our sun hats and seek out some alpine rock, staying as far away from the slushy spring snow as we could. Dasler Pinnacles up the Hopkins Valley ticked all the boxes.
 
James and I met Lionel at the end of the sealed road and packed into his truck for the bouncy ride up the Hopkins – making it almost to the Red Hut. 2 hours later and we had made it to our bivy spot at the saddle between the 1330 and the 1840 spot points. Our plan was to climb a route up the obvious corner that leads up to the buttress on the east face.
 
We started off early on Sunday and made it up through the tussocks and patches of soft slushy spring snow before it got too hot. Lionel tuck the first pitches once we had scrambled around to the slaby rock leading up to the large corner system on the buttress. 3 pitches in and the quality of the rock stopped us in our tracks  - large blocks of loose rock littered the traves rail out to the main buttress.  We decided to retreat down and try get around the corner system by staying more on the face. Once on the main face, we climbed up through some less chossy rock  – picking the line of least resistance up to the buttress.
 
Making short pitches allowed us to position our belay stations so that we were never directly underneath the climber – protecting us from any falling rock.   As we climbed the steepness eased and we topped out at 7pm. We descended via the north ridge as the sun was going down, avoiding any steep snow terrain that had been in the sun all day which was releasing small point breaks.
 

IMG_3459.JPG

Dasler Pinnacles as viewed from the valley. The left buttress is the line that we climbed.

Dasler Pinnacles as viewed from the valley. The left buttress is the line that we climbed.

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

IMG_3456.JPG

Driving up Hopkins Valley

Getting ready to walk up to the good track past Dasler Bivouac to our bivy spot.

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

IMG_3461.JPG

Bivy spot below the Pinnacles

The less impressive angle of Dasler Pinancles viewed from the high point 1330. The approach to the bottom of the climb from the saddle took us longer than expected.

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

IMG_3485.JPG

Lionel Clay climbing on dasler pinnacles

Lionel leading the corner pitch. The traverse to the left was littered with big blocks that stopped us getting to the main buttress. Later in the summer the wet crack system just poking into the right side of the picture may be provide an easier way past the corner.

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

 

75640800_2178947375743706_6793374429490446336_n (1).jpg

West Face of Dasler Pinnacles

The face of Dasler Pinnacles as we climbed up to gain the buttress

Creator: 
James Hobson

IMG_3502.JPG

North Ridge of Dasler Pinnacles

We descended down the North Ridge as the sun was going down - Keeping to the ridge line untill we where well passed the steep snow field

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

 

 

topo.JPG

New Route on Dasler Pinnacles

Route we climbed (in red) as viewed from the Hopkins Valley. In blue is the corner system we turned around on 3 pitches up due to lose rock

Creator: 
Ben Mangan

Beta

Gear: Small alpine rack, with single cams from .75 up to size 3 

Time: Approach 2 hours from the Hopkins valley to the base of the climb 

Climb: 9 pitches

 

Comments

Submitted by ben.mangan on

Test 1