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New route Tititea/Aspiring South Face: Kia rapu i tõku māramatanga [Seeking the Light]

Tuesday 4 August 2020, 4:32pm -- sooji.clarkson

Gavin Lang Photography-3890.jpg

Headed for the light at the top

Headed for the light at the top

Gavin Lang

A couple of days of high pressure were forecast; the weather window looked like it was wide enough to sneak through on Tuesday. Gavin sent out a call – could anyone make it down for a climb? As the forecast updated however, the incoming cold front looked set to sweep through sooner than we’d thought. Early on Saturday morning we decided to shift the climb a day sooner to match. I had to get down to Wanaka! I cancelled my Saturday plans and quickly rolled out of bed, threw an assortment of gear in my overworked car and hit the road. Objective: the South Face of Tititea/Aspiring.

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2020

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:30pm -- jazmorris


Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre


The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.


'Antics' - new route on the South Face of Mt Joffre

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:29pm -- jazmorris

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics' South Face Mt Joffre


Team member Jaz Morris along with Ruari Macfarlane and Maddy Whittaker recently made the first recorded ascent of an often-looked-at line on the south face of Joffre Peak in the West Matukituki Valley.

Going at grade 5, III (WI4 crux) and seven 60-70 m pitches (450 m total) in length, the route “Antics” makes a great direct approach to Colin Todd Hut! The route name references the annual journal of the Otago University Tramping Club (of which Maddy and Jaz have both been President) and the long connection of the OUTC to the valley.


Mt Hicks South Face - The Curver

Tuesday 21 July 2020, 12:12pm -- ben.mangan


Empress Hut and the South Face of Mt Hicks

A. McDowell

The faces were looking dry as Alastair and I made the journey up the Hooker Valley – as we picked our way through the rocky moraine we were quietly hoping that there would be some ice on the South Face of Hicks for us to climb. We weren’t disappointed with what we found!

When Al suggested a trip into Empress Hut, I jumped at the idea, keen to use the ice climbing skills I had picked up during the team trip to Canada in February.

Copper Point New Route - Straight outta lock down

Friday 29 May 2020, 11:20am -- daniel.joll

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Merry stepping out of lock down onto pitch 1

Daniel Joll

Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb.  Straight out of lock down is 175m long and has some excellent overhanging crack climbing on solid rock.  

If you enjoy trad climbing this is something worth checking out. 

Click the link below for a full topo and route beta pdf. 



Change is coming

Tuesday 28 January 2020, 2:02pm -- daniel.joll

Fitz Roy Sunset.jpg

Fitz Roy Sunset.

Sun set over Mt Fitz Roy, Patagonia. As a storm fast approaches.

Daniel Joll

An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently.  We are in the process of a generational change. 

Like a small wave lapping at your ankles, the next generation often arrives relatively unnoticed.  As the years pass, the wave grows stronger, before you know it a large breaker simply pushes past you and there you have it, here they are.

Rose Pearson's picture

Pilgrim - including route beta

Friday 10 January 2020, 10:34pm -- Rose Pearson


The view West from Aoraki summit

The view West from Aoraki summit. Low lands hugged in cloud.

Rose Pearson

Papatūānuku shifts imperceptibly in her sleep. Far above, a man stumbles. He is strong, but on this occasion he falls. The snow beneath him begins its slow slide. It gathers pace. Oblivion. She notices not; but for those close to him, their lives change forever. They wander grieving on this earth, alone, and in groups, seeking out his scent that lingers in the places he frequented.

Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta

Friday 29 November 2019, 2:16pm -- daniel.joll


Daniel sending the Enduro Corner during Caro and his ascent of Free Rider.

John McCune

In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was my second attempt on Free Rider with Jon. Earlier in the year my first attempt ended with a dislocated shoulder in the offwidth above El Cap Spire. We were sorting our haul bags and having a quick chat with Adam Ondra who was doing a photo shoot. We had just finished our attempt on Free Rider which had gone well but ultimately we had both fallen a couple of times. Adam asked me dead pan: "Why didn’t you just try again?" I laughed, we did!


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