Advice

Thursday 12 August 2021, 12:16pm
alastair.mcdowell

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Avalanche transceiver practice

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Avalanche transceiver practice

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Avalanche training is very important for anyone who ventures into the snow. Below are some tips on avalanche transceiver rescue from Wanaka SAR ranger and NZAT veteran advisor, Lionel Clay.

1. Know your transceiver

Practice with your transceiver. Every transceiver works differently. Research your model of transceiver to understand its range, flagging modes and interference with other electronics. Know how long the battery will last and carry spare batteries if necessary.

2. Keep your phone away from your transceiver

Thursday 4 February 2021, 2:02pm
alastair.mcdowell

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Ingredients for home made energy gels

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Ingredients for home made energy gels

Creator: 
A. McDowell

When exercising at a high intensity your body needs an easily digestible fuel source - carbohydrates. Even well fat-adapted athletes will still get a high proportion of their energy from carbohydrates during high intensity training. Runners, cyclists and other cardio-focused athletes use energy gels as an easily accessible source of carbohydrate fuel for their training and races. In other words, "carbs are legal dope"

Wednesday 30 September 2020, 11:33am
daniel.joll

Alpine Glow.jpg

The Kaipo Wall , Fiordland NZ. Many unclimbed lines are waiting on this wall for future generations of climbers.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Kaipo Wall , Fiordland NZ. Many unclimbed lines are waiting on this wall for future generations of climbers.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Developing new routes is a highly rewarding and often time consuming activity. Motivations for doing it range from from the personal challenge of opening big lines on unclimbed walls to developing your local crag. Personally I have usually decided to open a new route when I am looking for my own challenge rather than the desire to establish routes for others to climb. I really enjoy the excitement of running it out above my gear on unclimbed terrain, not knowing what's coming next. For me this is the most challenging form of climbing where you can put your skills to the test.

Friday 28 August 2020, 11:25pm
sooji.clarkson

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

Disassembled Petzl Nomic

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

An issue well known to Petzl Nomics (and some other models of ice axe) is the tendency for the heads to loosen and develop movement over time. This is mostly due to the design – the head of the axe is held in by a single rivet. Over time the press fit between the head and the shaft gets looser. As there is only a single rivet the head can rotate around this and the overall effect is a wobbly or moving head.

Thursday 30 July 2020, 5:32pm
alastair.mcdowell

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Enjoying a meal at the Niponino base camp, Torre valley

Creator: 
D. Joll

Enjoying a meal at the Niponino base camp, Torre valley

Creator: 
D. Joll

Nutrition on a mountaineering expedition can make or break the trip. Without the correct type of fuel, you cannot perform your best. In the context of mountaineering, there are 5 main constraints to be consider: weight, convenience, nutrition, shelf-life and taste.

Saturday 21 September 2019, 4:04am
alastair.mcdowell

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Running shorts and running shorts on a mountain summit?

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Running shorts and running shorts on a mountain summit?

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Imagine yourself jogging up the Matukituki Valley with a 3kg pack, cresting Bevan Col, donning light crampons on your running shoes across the Bonar Glacier, taking a late morning snack at Colin Todd, scrambling the Northwest ridge of Aspiring, and ripping it all the way back to the car in time for dinner in Wanaka. Welcome to the exciting world of Trailpinism: combining trail running gear, tactics and efficiency with mountain craft for a new way of tackling higher peaks.

Tuesday 7 May 2019, 4:38am
daniel.joll

Steve simul climbing on the West Face of Cerro Torre.JPG

Steve Fortune finishing a simul climbing block on the West Face of Cerro Torre

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Steve Fortune finishing a simul climbing block on the West Face of Cerro Torre

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

This is a technique that when used right will speed up many alpine and multi pitch ascents.  Why speed up your ascent? Personally I think speed is a key factor to moving safely in the mountains.  If you climb slowly you are more likely to have unplanned bivvies, get stuck in storms or get caught out by rock fall or serac fall. Moving quickly over technical terrain is also good fun!

Starting with the basics: "simul climbing" is when two climbers move at the same time with a rope between them, placing and removing protection as they go.

Saturday 20 April 2019, 6:08am
daniel.joll

Kim climbing thin ice Croz Spur.jpg

Kim Ladiges climbing thin ice on the Croz Spur

Creator: 
Dan Joll

Kim Ladiges climbing thin ice on the Croz Spur

Creator: 
Dan Joll

A couple of years ago, I sold my business in NZ and more or less became a full time climbing bum. This coincided with becoming a father, and the two combined led me to examine some of my climbing choices and the statistical risks associated with them. I was keen to make sure that I had good habits in place to avoid those once in a lifetime accidents that over a long climbing career might happen.

Saturday 20 October 2018, 9:15pm
daniel.joll

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Gemma Wilson being helicopter rescued from the Dolomites via a long line

Creator: 
Kristy Shelley

Gemma Wilson being helicopter rescued from the Dolomites via a long line

Creator: 
Kristy Shelley

During a recent trip to the Dolomites in Italy I found myself in a rescue situation with an injured climbing partner. We were climbing as a team of three, and one of the seconders pulled off a large block which fell down onto the third member of our team. I thought sharing a few tips on how to manage the situation and how to haul an injured climber could be useful for someone else who might find themselves in a similar situation.

Saturday 21 April 2018, 3:24am
daniel.joll

Jono Approch to Les Drus.jpg

Les Drus North Face

Les Drus North Face

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Les Drus North Face

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

This is a straight forward article with all the facts you need for climbing the Lesueur route on the North Face of Les Drus.  To follow this beta you will need two climbers who feel comfortable simul climbing up to M5.  Otherwise pitch it out and adjust your time expectation.   

Rack

Nuts 1 – 7

Cams Double set green C3 – 3.  Single #4 camalot and purple c3

Draws x 10

120cm slings x 2

2 x 4m cordalette

3 x tibloc's

2 x knife blades , 3 x ice screws, knife , v thread tool.  None of these needed on route, just for the descent. 

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