Enjoying a meal at the Niponino base camp, Torre valley
Nutrition on a mountaineering expedition can make or break the trip. Without the correct type of fuel, you cannot perform your best. In the context of mountaineering, there are 5 main constraints to be consider: weight, convenience, nutrition, shelf-life and taste.
Running shorts and running shorts on a mountain summit?
Imagine yourself jogging up the Matukituki Valley with a 3kg pack, cresting Bevan Col, donning light crampons on your running shoes across the Bonar Glacier, taking a late morning snack at Colin Todd, scrambling the Northwest ridge of Aspiring, and ripping it all the way back to the car in time for dinner in Wanaka. Welcome to the exciting world of Trailpinism: combining trail running gear, tactics and efficiency with mountain craft for a new way of tackling higher peaks.
Steve Fortune finishing a simul climbing block on the West Face of Cerro Torre
This is a technique that when used right will speed up many alpine and multi pitch ascents. Why speed up your ascent? Personally I think speed is a key factor to moving safely in the mountains. If you climb slowly you are more likely to have unplanned bivvies, get stuck in storms or get caught out by rock fall or serac fall. Moving quickly over technical terrain is also good fun!
Starting with the basics: "simul climbing" is when two climbers move at the same time with a rope between them, placing and removing protection as they go.
Les Drus North Face
This is a straight forward article with all the facts you need for climbing the Lesueur route on the North Face of Les Drus. To follow this beta you will need two climbers who feel comfortable simul climbing up to M5. Otherwise pitch it out and adjust your time expectation.
Rack
Nuts 1 – 7
Cams Double set green C3 – 3. Single #4 camalot and purple c3
Draws x 10
120cm slings x 2
2 x 4m cordalette
3 x tibloc's
2 x knife blades , 3 x ice screws, knife , v thread tool. None of these needed on route, just for the descent.
The ice hammock in use on an ascent of the North Face of Cholatse, Nepal
The ice hammock is a relatively new invention and although it's a great idea and works well, it's unlikely that any outdoor company is going to start making them commercially anytime soon, so we thought its worth writing an article for anyone who has an interest in making and using them for alpine climbing.
Jonas leading on the North Buttress of Sabre
Within our team, we want to standardise the calls we use, so you always know what to expect when you climb with someone from the NZAT. It is good to reduce the calls you use to a bare minimum and not say unnecessary things as these can add more confusion than clarity. A belayer/climber does not need a running commentary and you don't want a shouting match at the end of a pitch. It is also a good principle to acknowledge any calls heard, as often the caller does not know if they are heard. This is normally a simple 'OK' or 'Thank You'. This article describes the standard climbing calls and procedures used when climbing. Sticking to these and only these, will help reduce misunderstandings when climbing.
Kim Ladiges climbing the Super Couloir Mt Blanc Du Tacul
There is no rope that does every job. Therefore when building your selection of climbing ropes here are a few points to consider.
As an alpine climber I keep quite 5 main ropes or pairs of ropes in my collection for regular use.
These ropes are made up of Tendon Master & Tendon Lowe ropes.
Cragging is just one part of training for alpinism
All of us find ourselves city bound from time to time. Here are some tips and tricks for staying mountain fit even during prolonged periods out of the mountains.
Steve Fortune short fixing, high up on the Nose of El Capitan
Please note that short-fixing is an advanced climbing technique and is not suitable for beginners or anyone new to trad climbing. In using this technique, it is necessary to have sufficient climbing experience to make a sound judgement call as to when it is appropriate to short-fix, and when it is not. This article seeks only to describe the concept of short-fixing and will not help you in making that judgement call. If you have any doubts, you should stick to regular belaying practises.
Ben Dare on Professor Falls.
