Copper Point New Route - Straight out of lock down

Friday 29 May 2020, 11:20am -- daniel.joll

Merry pitch 1 resize.jpg

Merry stepping out of lock down onto pitch 1

Daniel Joll

Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb.  Straight out of lock down is 175m long and has some excellent overhanging crack climbing on solid rock.  

If you enjoy trad climbing this is something worth checking out. 

Click the link below for a full topo and route beta pdf. 


Rose Pearson's picture

Life Compass - West Face of Mt Blane

Saturday 11 April 2020, 1:50pm -- Rose Pearson

Patti Henderson

Life Compass West Face Mt Blane

Life Compass - the route Rose and Brette took when ascending the West Face of Mt Blane

Patti Henderson

Mount Blane is a well known peak in the Opal Range on the Western edge of the Canadian Rockies. It even features in the classic Ansel Adams book, In the Canadian Rockies. It was Blane’s west face that caught Brette’s attention when she and Brandon took the long way home after a day of cragging in Kananaskis country. With no route information available on-line, that evening, we studied photos scoured from the internet piecing together a possible route.

Change is coming

Tuesday 28 January 2020, 2:02pm -- daniel.joll

Fitz Roy Sunset.jpg

Fitz Roy Sunset.

Sun set over Mt Fitz Roy, Patagonia. As a storm fast approaches.

Daniel Joll

An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently.  We are in the process of a generational change. 

Like a small wave lapping at your ankles, the next generation often arrives relatively unnoticed.  As the years pass, the wave grows stronger, before you know it a large breaker simply pushes past you and there you have it, here they are.

Rose Pearson's picture

Pilgrim - including route beta

Friday 10 January 2020, 10:34pm -- Rose Pearson


The view West from Aoraki summit

The view West from Aoraki summit. Low lands hugged in cloud.

Rose Pearson

Papatūānuku shifts imperceptibly in her sleep. Far above, a man stumbles. He is strong, but on this occasion he falls. The snow beneath him begins its slow slide. It gathers pace. Oblivion. She notices not; but for those close to him, their lives change forever. They wander grieving on this earth, alone, and in groups, seeking out his scent that lingers in the places he frequented.

Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta

Friday 29 November 2019, 2:16pm -- daniel.joll


Daniel sending the Enduro Corner during Caro and his ascent of Free Rider.

John McCune

In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was my second attempt on Free Rider with Jon. Earlier in the year my first attempt ended with a dislocated shoulder in the offwidth above El Cap Spire. We were sorting our haul bags and having a quick chat with Adam Ondra who was doing a photo shoot. We had just finished our attempt on Free Rider which had gone well but ultimately we had both fallen a couple of times. Adam asked me dead pan: "Why didn’t you just try again?" I laughed, we did!

Climbing Dasler Pinnacles - Hopkins Valley

Thursday 7 November 2019, 9:56pm -- ben.mangan


Dasler Pinnacles Hopkins Valley
Ben Mangan
Ben Mangan, Lionel Clay, James Hobson
With the freezing level rapidly rising all over the Southern Alps – it was time to grab the climbing shoes and our sun hats and seek out some alpine rock, staying as far away from the slushy spring snow as we could. Dasler Pinnacles up the Hopkins Valley ticked all the boxes.

Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019

Wednesday 24 July 2019, 3:46am -- alastair.mcdowell


Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.



Subscribe to Front page feed