Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.
 

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019

Wednesday 24 July 2019, 3:46am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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Peru 2019 - Cordillera Blanca

Thursday 27 June 2019, 10:23am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Meri Simms climbing the summit slopes of Ishinca in Peru's Cordillera Blanca

Creator: 
Matt Scholes

Peru and the Cordillera Blanca must have the most easily accessed 6000m peaks in the world. It’s possible to be at a base camp for a peak the same day you leave town. It’s also a cheap country to travel in and climbing requires no peak fees. The dry winter season also has stable weather giving us a good chance of getting up high.

King Cobra - Alaskan Big Wall Free Climbing

Sunday 16 June 2019, 12:55pm -- alastair.mcdowell

Kim splitter

Kim Ladiges firing up an off-fingers splitter crack on Mount Barrill in Alaska's Ruth Gorge

Creator: 
John Price

Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of neighbouring Mount Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack Gravel” of the Ruth Gorge.

I’m balanced on an arete well above my last piece. I reach for a pecker piton and weld it into a thin crack with my free hand, tightening my crimp on the other. I launch into the corner above, loaded with tottering loose flakes.

Walker Spur in Winter - Grandes Jorasses

Friday 26 April 2019, 9:18pm -- Anonymous (not verified)

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Dan Joll nearing the top of the Walker Spur as alpenglow lights up the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
K. Ladiges

This is a trip report for an ascent of the Walker spur by Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll on the 22/3/2019 (first day of spring so not quite a winter ascent but certainly “wintery”).

Conditions

Temperature for 4000m max :  -11C    min :   -17C    light winds.

Major snowfall occurred 5 days previously, strong winds had stripped a fair bit of this snow off the ridge so that it mostly appeared rocky from a distance.

Route

A Winter in the French Alps

Tuesday 23 April 2019, 6:39am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Lionel Clay on the descent of the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Spending a whole season in a place as dynamic as Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps is an interesting experience. Observing the conditions & season change through the months, and adapting to the most practical way to experience the mountains is a great learning process. From skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or rock climbing, all is possible in the Mont Blanc massif and surrounds, and is all a matter of patience. Here Alastair recalls the various trips made over the course of the winter by the NZAT contingent of himself, Daniel Joll, Lionel Clay and Kim Ladiges. 

Gangapurna Expedition 2018, Nepal

Saturday 20 April 2019, 7:30pm -- Matthew Scholes

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Kim approaching Gangapurna

Kim approaching Gangapurna

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

September 30, 2018, NZAT members Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes flew into Nepal for a 6 week expedition with the primary objective being the south face of Gangapurna, 7455m. Here Matt Scholes recounts his and Kim's journey to attempt this huge 1500 metre face in the Annapurna Massif.

The Manaslu Circuit - Acclimatisation Trek

2019 - 2022 Team Trials

Thursday 4 April 2019, 8:08pm -- daniel.joll

2019 Team trial participants

2019 Team trial participants

Creator: 
Ben Dare

During March 2019 the NZAT held a trial in Queenstown for new members to join our mentoring program.  This is something we do every three years.  Details of what we are looking for from applicants can be found on our website.  A run down of our previous 2016 trial can be found here

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North Face of Petit Dru, Allain-Leininger route

Monday 18 February 2019, 7:42am -- alastair.mcdowell

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North Face of Les Drus. Allain-Leininger route with bivouac spot marked

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Les Drus is the most impressive granite monolith overlooking the Chamonix Valley. Often you will catch a glance of the intimidating, dark rock peak from the opposite sunny side of the valley, and its a wonder that this face would be so alluring. This winter in Chamonix has been unusually dry, the mountains are devoid of ice, every new snow fall brings dry snow that fattens the ski-fields, but blows off the steep mountain faces. So instead of lamenting it, we embraced it, and set about blunting our tools and crampons on 850m of granite dry tooling up the North Face of the Petit Dru.

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