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A New Dawn - A New route on the Donne Face
Tanja de Wilde and Peter Le, January 2025 Over the summer Peter and I climbed a new route on the 700m tall Donne Face of Mt Revelation....
nzalpineteam
Mar 165 min read
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Gods of Chaos - New Route on the East face of Mt Chaos
East face of Mt Chaos as viewed from near our bivy site. Red dots indicate most of the anchors Gods of Chaos – 20, 650m, 12 Pitches March...
Mason Gardener
Mar 115 min read
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The First Ascent of the West Face of Mount Grave
The west face of Mt Grave as seen from Cascade Peak, with approximate route and first bivi site shown in red. Dotted line indicates...
Rose Pearson
Mar 22 min read
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Ground Up Development on the Charismatic Wall - A trip report
DJ Wild - Daniel Joll, Tanja de Wilde Never before have I cared so deeply about sending a project. “What is wrong with me!?” I think as I...
nzalpineteam
Jan 249 min read
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DJ Wild - A First Ascent on the Charismatic Wall
DJ Wild 23 Pitches , grade 24, Mixed bolts and trad protection. All belays double bolted and the full route can be rappelled with a...
kiwiiceclimber
Jan 175 min read
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5th NZAT Mentoring Intake - Trials Set 30/01/2026
The New Zealand Alpine Team is an ongoing initiative of the Expedition Climbers Club Inc. born from a desire to support and encourage...
Rose Pearson
Dec 2, 20242 min read
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How to poop on a portaledge
There are many places in the mountains, maybe most, where taking a crap and leaving it just doesn't cut the mustard. You should think...
Rose Pearson
Nov 10, 20243 min read
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Cold mountain boot revolution
The author Matty on Kangchungtse From season-to-season, things generally don't change a lot in climbing world. Maybe companies shave off...
Matt Scholes
Oct 4, 20243 min read
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Macpac Nitro Hybrid Jacket Review
Mac Pacs Nitro Hybrid Jacket is a light weight insulation and wind resistant layer, for active adventurers in the mountains. The jackets...
Llewellyn Murdoch
Sep 4, 20242 min read
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Macpac Prophet Air Bib Pants Review
Above: Sophie climbing in the Prophet Bib Air Pants on the Weeping Wall, in the Canadian Rockies ------------------ Last spring while...
Lionel Clay
Sep 1, 20242 min read
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A Climber's Review of the Fenix HM65R-T V2 Headlamp
Light is essential for any climber when the day gets away on them and night falls. A reliable headlamp becomes an important lifeline,...
Liam Pyott
Jun 12, 20243 min read
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South face of Mt. Watkins, Yosemite
18th-20th May, 2024. Steven Fortune and Maddy Whittaker Mt Watkins is just as immense and impressive looking as El Capitan and Half Dome,...
Maddy Whittaker
Jun 7, 20248 min read
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El Capitan 'The Shield' C3+ A3 - A guide
First climbed in 1972 by Charlie Porter and Gary Bocarde, the ‘Shield’ follows an impossible series of micro seams up an otherwise shear...
Mason Gardener
Jun 3, 20248 min read
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Ultra light hyperbaric chamber
Portable high altitude hyperbaric chambers have been around since the 80's but haven't evolved much since then, why? Most likely because...
Matt Scholes
Mar 26, 20245 min read
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A Southern Alps Traverse: making the dream a reality
In the summer of 2020-21, I spent a couple of months traversing the Southern Alps of New Zealand with Tōrea Scott Fyfe, Thomas Hadley and...
Maddy Whittaker
Mar 12, 202415 min read
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North to South Crossing: Garden of Eden and Garden of Allah Ice Plateaus
Northern most of Te Wai Pounamu’s ice plateaus, the Gardens or Eden and Allah preside proudly at the headwaters Rakaia and Rangitata on...
Rose Pearson
Feb 8, 20241 min read
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Con Air First Ascent Airport Wall
Established over several trips to the wall, Llewellyn Murdoch and Daniel Joll made the first free ascent of this new all free line on the...
kiwiiceclimber
Feb 4, 20246 min read
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Patagonia update
“Should have stayed in the mountains” We paced around outside the apartment staring up at Fitzroy. There were no clouds in the sky. At...
Kim Ladiges
Feb 2, 20244 min read
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West Face of Guillamet, Patagonia
After our 40 hour push on Mermoz we spent a couple of days trying desperately to recover, as it appeared more fine weather was on the...
Kim Ladiges
Jan 24, 20245 min read
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Ascent of Pillar Rojo on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
After two days of travel we stepped off the bus to a windless, sunny El Chalten. We had arrived at the end of an unusually good weather...
Kim Ladiges
Jan 19, 20244 min read
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