New Zealand Alpine Team

Learning lessons on the Goretta Pillar – failing is the best inspiration

Decision time. We all knew this moment was coming. Jacob, Pet and I had all been thinking about it as we pushed on, far behind schedule. Now we finally stopped at a belay to make a plan. We had just joined the main line of the Casorotto route on the Goretta Pillar of Fitzroy. Above us soared a tower of golden granite and splitter cracks, glowing in the evening sun. The climbing looked absolutely delightful. The weather was perfect, the views incredible. THIS is what we had co

Expedition

Tanja de Wilde

3 days ago7 min read

Butterfly Effect, A new route on Mt Chaos

Back in March of 2025, during our ascent of 'Gods of Chaos', Jacob Kuchler and I stumbled upon what we believe to be some of the highest quality alpine schist in New Zealand. At the time we noted an extraordinary golden buttress down below us which was screaming out to be climbed. A month later, I managed to wrangle Liam Pyott into joining me on the first exploratory look at this new buttress. What stood out was a significant chimney system at about a third height. Separatin

Mason Gardener

6 days ago3 min read

Multipitch Bags - Reviewing Different Approaches and Applications

When multipitch climbing, having the ability to carry food and extra layers is a significant factor to an enjoyable send or a suffer fest, but so is the importance and approach to carrying them. Different systems will be amazing in one application, but inefficient and slow in another. Identifying your situation of use is important to determining what style is appropriate for your climb. Using the Big Wall grading system, each system has an ideal application Grade I–III: Half

Alpine

Reon Morrison

Mar 95 min read

Summer in the Darrans

The Darrans is an epicenter of alpine rock climbing, boasting amazing granite faces in arguably New Zealand’s best backdrop, providing everything for a successful summer. As I (Reon) was descending from Mt Chaos on a trip prior, our inreach pinged with a message from Dan, “Tell Reon, Imogen is in Milford with food and gear to climb tomorrow on Charismatic Wall”, well there goes my rest day… As I arrived at Homer Hut, a quick introduction with Imogen and pack had us heading up

Rock

Reon Morrison

Feb 186 min read

NZAT 2026 Intake Weekend

This year, the NZAT took a different approach to selecting the new intake of mentees. Plan A was for a weekend of climbing in the Darrans, but with a wet forecast looming, the decision was made to shift to Lake Hope in the Remarkables and focus on route development instead. By Thursday afternoon, the five prospective mentees- Owyn, Reon, Isaac, Tim and myself (Imogen) - were excited. We were joined by Dan, Llewellyn, Lionel, Mason and Henry. Our bags were packed with drills,

Imogen Potts

Feb 105 min read

What to put in a Basecamp First Aid Kit: Greenland Climbing Expedition

For our recent big wall climbing expedition in Southern Greenland, I was given the job of putting together a Basecamp first aid kit. As I...

nzalpineteam

Sep 26, 20255 min read

Tasermiut Fjord Expedition - New Zealand Alpine Team 6th August - 8th September 2025

I would first like to recognise the key societies, clubs and sponsors that helped us get over to such an amazing country for an unforgettable climbing experience. Without them none of this would have been possible. Special thanks to Macpac for kitting us out with our clothing, Lowa for our boots and Radix for fueling us. Also many thanks to the The Expedition Climbers Club New Zealand Alpine Team New Zealand Alpine Club Tupiki Trust 6th Aug - 8th Aug Travel Copenhagen - Na

Mason Gardener

Sep 25, 202510 min read

Big Kumura, New Route in Tasermiut Fjord 5.10+ C2 R

A trip report written by Jacob Kuchler The day after arriving in Tasermiut Fjord, Mason and Liam returned to basecamp with news of a potential new line on Ulamertorssuaq and three days of good weather. The route they had spotted was on the North western face and would take a line just left of a gully up low angle terrain and lead us to an option of buttress’ and cracks on the headwall. The following day we hiked the last of our gear to the base of the route intending to estab

Mason Gardener

Sep 25, 20255 min read

Greenland Expedition Food and Climbing Equipment

At first glance planning your meals for a month long expedition can be a daunting task. Six members of our Team recently returned from...

kiwiiceclimber

Sep 22, 20256 min read

Makalu, my first 8000m peak

The idea to go back to Makalu after the attempt in 2023 was made much easier by the idea that I would be able to do the initial...

Matt Scholes

May 25, 202510 min read

A New Dawn - A New route on the Donne Face

Tanja de Wilde and Peter Le, January 2025 Over the summer Peter and I climbed a new route on the 700m tall Donne Face of Mt Revelation....

nzalpineteam

Mar 16, 20255 min read

Gods of Chaos - New Route on the East face of Mt Chaos

East face of Mt Chaos as viewed from near our bivy site. Red dots indicate most of the anchors Gods of Chaos – 20, 650m, 12 Pitches March...

Mason Gardener

Mar 11, 20255 min read

The First Ascent of the West Face of Mount Grave

The west face of Mt Grave as seen from Cascade Peak, with approximate route and first bivi site shown in red. Dotted line indicates unroped travel. The West Face of Mt Grave has withstood several attempts over the years including an early attempt in Easter 1978 or 1979 by Warwick Anderson and co, who had to beat a hasty retreat in from a storm that caused major flooding. Another attempt was made in the 2000's by Craig Jeffries and Bridget Allen. Tanja de Wilde first saw and