Mile High Club 700m, 22 pitches,26-27 , Airport Wall, Milford Sound

Sunday 8 November 2020, 4:19pm -- daniel.joll

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Steve Fortune on pitch 21 during the first one day free ascent of the Mile High Club. Nov 2020.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Short approach, many pitches, interesting and challenging climbing.  Personally when it came to climbing in NZ I had always hoped I could either climb or develop a true big wall style route.  While we have many nice granite cliffs in NZ most of them require a long approach and many do not have sustained climbing throughout.  Being a bit lazy in terms of walking 6-10 hours for 300-500m of climbing I often found myself lacking inspiration as I searched through guide books and maps looking for a new climbing challenge.  When it comes to rock climbing I love long climbs with short approaches, t

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Variations on a Theme: alternate versions of classic routes on Aoraki and Mt Dixon

Sunday 1 November 2020, 6:56am -- sooji.clarkson

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Anzac Peaks, Cinerama Col and Aoraki from below the West Face of Mt Dixon

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

It seemed like the first reasonable break in the weather for weeks. I'd like to call the response an orderly mobilisation of the troops, or maybe it was more like the first week out of COVID-19 lockdown; a rush to line up at burger joints and takeaways, a line headed up the Hooker to Empress Hut, and Gavin and I joining in line with three other skiers up to Plateau Hut. We had an excess of cabin fever to sweat out, solid looking snow conditions, and weather up our sleeves to look at more than a few possibilities.

 

 

Mt Hicks South Face - The Curver

Monday 26 October 2020, 4:33pm -- James.Hobson

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The author approaching the summit of Mt Hicks

Creator: 
Lionel Clay

More like the Learning Curver ! Lighter packs and a better looking weather window had myself and Lionel walking up the Hooker for the second time in a couple of months with the South face of Hicks on our minds. After seeing the epic trip Al and Ben had we just wanted to go and check it out for ourselves!

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New route Mt DArchiac South Face: Lust

Tuesday 13 October 2020, 11:38pm -- sooji.clarkson

South Face of Mt D'Archiac

South Face of Mt D'Archiac

George skinning towards the South Face of Mt D'Archiac

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

Accompanied by Elliot and Luke doing all sorts of things I would never have guessed you could (or should?) do in a stock standard Grand Vitara, the sunny, braided, Godley river valley passed by in a rocky montage of dotterels, geese, paradise ducks, and the inevitable ever-present grey and orange rocks. On reaching the lake at the head of the valley, we portaged gear across this last undriveable stretch and settled comfortably into Godley Hut. 

Southern Alps Ski Traverse

Friday 9 October 2020, 7:40pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Crossing Terra Nova Pass into the Godley Glacier

Creator: 
A. McDowell

The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya cancelled, the lockdown forced us to consider how we could exert an expedition-scale effort here in our backyard, the Southern Alps.

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Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival instructor’s wrap party: Tititea/Aspiring South West Ridge

Wednesday 19 August 2020, 6:25pm -- sooji.clarkson

Descending the SWR Tititea

Descending the SWR Tititea

Descending the SWR Tititea

Creator: 
sooji.clarkson

The lead up to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival is always an intensely satisfying, full on week for the NZAT. Day after day we head up the mountain, getting in a wide variety of different climbing partners and climbing styles. By virtue of being up there every day, as the weather changes through the week we also often climb in a wide range of conditions.

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New route Tititea/Aspiring South Face: Kia rapu i tõku māramatanga [Seeking the Light]

Tuesday 4 August 2020, 4:32pm -- sooji.clarkson

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Headed for the light at the top

Headed for the light at the top

Creator: 
Gavin Lang

A couple of days of high pressure were forecast; the weather window looked like it was wide enough to sneak through on Tuesday. Gavin sent out a call – could anyone make it down for a climb? As the forecast updated however, the incoming cold front looked set to sweep through sooner than we’d thought. Early on Saturday morning we decided to shift the climb a day sooner to match. I had to get down to Wanaka! I cancelled my Saturday plans and quickly rolled out of bed, threw an assortment of gear in my overworked car and hit the road. Objective: the South Face of Tititea/Aspiring.

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2020

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:30pm -- jazmorris

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Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Creator: 
JM

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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'Antics' - new route on the South Face of Mt Joffre

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:29pm -- jazmorris

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics' South Face Mt Joffre

Creator: 
JM

Team member Jaz Morris along with Ruari Macfarlane and Maddy Whittaker recently made the first recorded ascent of an often-looked-at line on the south face of Joffre Peak in the West Matukituki Valley.

Going at grade 5, III (WI4 crux) and seven 60-70 m pitches (450 m total) in length, the route “Antics” makes a great direct approach to Colin Todd Hut! The route name references the annual journal of the Otago University Tramping Club (of which Maddy and Jaz have both been President) and the long connection of the OUTC to the valley.

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