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Douglas Peak – South Face – Beta
The guidebook raves that the South Face of Douglas Peak is one of New Zealand's great ice climbs. We too can attest this is a classic ice...
nzalpineteam
Oct 5, 20213 min read
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Avalanche Risk Management L5 – practical, applicable, and a load of fun
I've heard it often joked that the most important thing learnt since March 2020 in these pandemic times, is to just not make any plans....
nzalpineteam
Sep 29, 20217 min read
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Accident Analysis: Ankle agony at Arapiles
Everyone enjoys a little voyeurism from time to time, and if it can be combined with a spot of education, then we all come away a little...
nzalpineteam
Sep 19, 20213 min read
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Tips for Avalanche Transceiver Rescue
Avalanche training is very important for anyone who ventures into the snow. Below are some tips on avalanche transceiver rescue from...
nzalpineteam
Aug 12, 20212 min read
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The Dreamliner Airport Wall Milford Sound
Free at last, free at last. I could sense James summoning the words of Martin Luther king as he dreamed of finally leaving the hanging...
nzalpineteam
May 8, 20216 min read
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Big Wall Training Trip 2021
Yosemite here we come. Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team's training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies in 2020. Well,...
nzalpineteam
Apr 11, 202111 min read
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How to make your own Energy Gels
When exercising at a high intensity your body needs an easily digestible fuel source – carbohydrates. Even well fat-adapted athletes will...
nzalpineteam
Feb 4, 20213 min read
3 comments


Evolution of the Arthurs Pass to Mount Cook Traverse
“Many Canterbury men know that a tough trans-alpine crossing can be a harder test of competence in unorthodox travel and stubborn...
nzalpineteam
Jan 17, 202113 min read
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Mile High Club, Airport Wall, Milford Sound
Short approach, many pitches, interesting and challenging climbing. Personally when it came to climbing in NZ I had always hoped I could...
nzalpineteam
Nov 8, 202017 min read
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Variations on a Theme: alternate versions of classic routes on Aoraki and Mt Dixon
It seemed like the first reasonable break in the weather for weeks. I’d like to call the response an orderly mobilisation of the troops,...
nzalpineteam
Nov 1, 20207 min read
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Mt Hicks South Face – The Curver
More like the Learning Curver ! Lighter packs and a better looking weather window had myself and Lionel walking up the Hooker for the...
nzalpineteam
Oct 26, 20203 min read
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New route Mt DArchiac South Face: Lust
Accompanied by Elliot and Luke doing all sorts of things I would never have guessed you could (or should) do in a stock standard Grand...
nzalpineteam
Oct 13, 20206 min read
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Southern Alps Ski Traverse
The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya...
nzalpineteam
Oct 9, 20209 min read
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Tips and Tricks for Ground Up Lead Bolting
Developing new routes is a highly rewarding and often time consuming activity. Motivations for doing it range from from the personal...
nzalpineteam
Sep 30, 20209 min read
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The war against the wobble: Fixing loose heads in Petzl Nomics
An issue well known to Petzl Nomics (and some other models of ice axe) is the tendency for the heads to loosen and develop movement over...
nzalpineteam
Aug 28, 20205 min read
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Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival instructor's wrap party: Tititea/Aspiring South West Ridge
The lead up to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival is always an intensely satisfying, full on week for the NZAT. Day after day we head...
nzalpineteam
Aug 19, 20204 min read
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First Ascent South Face of Pyramid Peak
First ascent of the South Face of Pyramid Peak (2295m) - Ben Dare (solo), July 2020. ‘Frost Flower’, Grade 6- (M5, WI4), VI, (1200m). Ten...
nzalpineteam
Aug 7, 20205 min read
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![New route Tititea/Aspiring South Face: Kia rapu i toku maramatanga [Seeking the Light]](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/572bde_10eb33521855405583fa276875f11f35~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_454,h_341,fp_0.50_0.50,q_90,enc_avif,quality_auto/572bde_10eb33521855405583fa276875f11f35~mv2.webp)
New route Tititea/Aspiring South Face: Kia rapu i toku maramatanga [Seeking the Light]
A couple of days of high pressure were forecast; the weather window looked like it was wide enough to sneak through on Tuesday. Gavin...
nzalpineteam
Aug 4, 20203 min read
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Packing Food for a Mountaineering Expedition
Nutrition on a mountaineering expedition can make or break the trip. Without the correct type of fuel, you cannot perform your best. In...
nzalpineteam
Jul 30, 20206 min read
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Gear review – Macpac Nazomi lightweight hardshell
I’d heard that the chaps planning head off to Changabang had been talking with Macpac about a new light hardshell jacket for technical...
nzalpineteam
Jul 27, 20202 min read
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