Darrans Winter Meet. New routes in the Darrans sent by NZAT members

Tuesday 20 August 2013, 9:22am -- daniel.joll

2013_07 Rose.jpg

Rose showing the boys how its done.

Jaz Morris

Several members of the NZAT made the most of average conditions at the recent Darrans Winter Meet, putting up three new routes in the Homer/Macpherson area. Saturday 13 July started clear and cold, promising a good start to the week.

However, finding only thin ice at lower altitudes, NZAT member Ben Dare (Queenstown) went searching for better material. With Danny Murphy and Steve Skelton, he put up a new ice route in the upper Macpherson Cirque 'The Elusive Leprechaun' (III, 5).

Yosemite National Park Camping Beta

Sunday 9 June 2013, 9:53am -- daniel.joll

El Cap.JPG

El Capitan

Daniel Joll

Camping in Yosemite can be a real nightmare. If you plan to arrive during the peak summer season and like most climbers have not reserved your camp site months in advance your maximum stay at Camp Four will likely be seven days.  Park Rangers strictly enforce the 7 day rule.  You can get around it if your lucky but this will envolve a constant game of cat and mouse with the Park Rangers.  Freedom camping is basically not an option in the Valley.


A New Route on the South Face of Sabre

Monday 27 May 2013, 10:39pm -- daniel.joll


Steve Fortune seconding high up on the South Face

Daniel Joll

The snow is lightly falling as we sit in the wardens quarters of Homer Hut with Al Uren, Al Walker, Jimmy, Shelagh and Keara. The fire is cranked up and our bags are packed for a 12.45 am wake up call. We have three bottles of wine open and they are going down nicely as we sit by the warm fire talking and soaking up the Darrans atmosphere. Shelagh is a university lecturer and is researching motivating factors for climbers and how those climbers socialise within the climbing community. Our discussion comes around to the bond between climbing partners.


Patagonia Expedition December 2013

Monday 27 May 2013, 9:42pm -- daniel.joll


Cerro Torre Massif

Dennis Demonchy

Team members Jono Clarke, Daniel Joll & Steven Fortune will be heading to Patagonia for a five week expedition starting 1st December 2013. They are hoping to make a second ascent of the line Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed in 2012 on Cerro Torre. 

Here is a photo essay of previous Patagonia expeditions team members have taken part in.  Patagonia is an inspiring location to visit and climb in.  


Les Dru North Couloir Direct

Monday 27 May 2013, 9:30pm -- daniel.joll


Fredrik Aspo seconding a long 60m pitch of M7+ climbing. The crux of the route is the following pitch.

Daniel Joll

Sometimes its good to dream. For many years I dreamed of climbing Les Dru in Chamonix. Initially my dream was to climb the Bonatti Pillar. Turns our I had left my first visit to Chamonix to late, by the time I first arrived in Chamonix the pillar had fallen down. My dream crushed into millions of small stones at the base of the Dru’s North Face. However, the dream didn’t die. The Dru still stood and it had plenty of other routes to offer. Each visit to Chamonix I would take a walk up valley and stare at the Dru. Its steep North and West Faces leading to a double pointed summit.


Subscribe to Front page feed