Some experiences are so much larger than those it precedes, it takes a time before they can be shared. For me, the two weeks I spent climbing in Chamonix with Daniel Joll in August 2014 were such an experience. Not only were the routes we climbed longer and harder than any I had previously climbed, they were also more committing and several were climbed in poor conditions with marginal forecasts. This is why it is only now, 6 months after the end of the trip, that I am finally putting a pen to paper.
Canada Ice Climbing Blog - by Jaz Morris and Frazer Attrill
We have included a link to the best photos of the trip below. Even if you are not a Facebook user you can click on the photo selection and see all the photos. Scoll down the page to see both the FB album and a short video of 10 classic Canadian ice climbs. Scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see our tips for staying in the Rockies and a gear list we used for the trip.
First ascent of the South Face of Mt Suter (2094m).
Darrans winter grade VI, 6 (WI5), Ben Dare, Stephen Skelton 19th July 2014.
The man who lives in the mountains is free.
He must be, if he is to go beyond the reaches of the forest, and find his path to the summit.
The man who lives in the mountains is determined.
He pushes through with gritted teeth and an icy beard, because he knows what richness will reward him at the top.
The man who lives in the mountains is patient.
He has to retrace his steps a thousand times over, taking two forward and one back.
The man who lives in the mountains is honest.
As we walked towards the South Face of Aspiring early on Saturday morning I watched several shooting stars dash across the night sky. Two weeks before our friends Ari & Frazer had climbed the South Face of Aspiring. On the descent Ari slipped, falling to his death near the base of the North West Ridge. At Ari's service in Golden Bay the Pastor described his short life like a shooting star, burning brightly, touching many but only lasting a short time. This analogy stuck with me over the last two weeks and as I approached the South Face I watched the shooting stars remembering all th
They say a climbing partnership is like a relationship, and it’s fairly well established that opposites attract: perhaps that’s why Ari and I worked.
Unfortunately it is with great sadness that we announce that the climber reported killed on Mt Aspiring yesterday was NZ Alpine Team member Ari Kingan, age 21 of Golden Bay. Ari was our good mate, and our thoughts are with his friends and family; our sincere condolences to his family Lea, Ross and Dan.
New route on the South-East Face of Ferintsoh Peak (2497m). The route starts up steep ice through the lower rock band, slightly right of centre, before following a vague gully system to finish just right of the crest of the main buttress. 450m, WI4-, M4, alpine grade MC5. Ben Dare solo 8th July 2014
The first twinkle of hoar frost came just at the entrance to the Eglinton. The full moon lit the peaks with a silvery glow of snow on the tops and ice on the valley floor. Winter had come to the mountains, and a well-timed high-pressure system coincided with the annual Darrans Winter Climbing Meet at Homer Hut. However, I’d only managed to scrape three days off work, had left town late, and I was driving late in the night and was desperate to get some sleep before the next day’s climb.