First Ascent of the West Face of Lyttle Peak

Monday 14 April 2014, 4:29pm -- Pete Harris

West Face.JPG

The West Face of Lyttle Peak

Pete Harris

Three of our other options for our biennial brothers’ trip had been abandoned due to weather or conditions. An idea which had been mooted, but remained on the back-burner due to the mystery and unknown nature of it, was an attempt at Lyttle Peak. Inspired by Rob Frost’s article in The Climber, we decided that regardless of what happened, it was sure to be an adventure, and as such, late one Thursday afternoon, we set out for South Westland.

Weta Prowl, Steeple Peak

Monday 7 April 2014, 1:07pm -- jazmorris


Tiff Stephens near the summit ridge of Steeple Peak on pitch five

Jaz Morris

A contender for the worst rock in the Alps would have to be Mt Huxley, which sits at head of the Ahuriri River with the Chosspile Peaks immediately south and Shingle Hill not far away. Funny then, that on an autumn 2012 trip to climb Huxley via the South Temple Stream, my eye was caught by Steeple Peak. Grovelling up henious scree slopes to V-Notch Pass we could look downvalley and see, inconceivably in the circumstances, some solid-looking rock. We knew some routes had been put up there by the likes of McLeod, Hersey et al. - and shelved the idea for the following summer.

New Route on Barrier Peak S. Face. First in 36 years.

Thursday 20 March 2014, 10:44pm -- steve.skelton

Cyclone Luci was making her way south across the Pacific, bearing down on the north island and due to hit land on Saturday. I too was making my way south, in the back seat of a car sitting next to Lucy, my friend. We had a narrow window of good weather before the cyclone was due to give the country a wash and we wanted to make the most of our weekend. We met the rest of the team in Te Anau for some fish and chips and the seven of us headed into the Fiordland, arriving at Homer Hut around 10pm.

South Face East Twin Second Ascent

Monday 10 March 2014, 3:59pm -- daniel.joll

Queenstown is the ideal location to live as a climber in NZ.  Close enough to all the major South Island alpine climbing destinations it is perfect for taking advantage of short weather windows and maximising your weekend adventures.  Ben Dare and I left home at 6am on Saturday morning with high hopes of a climb on the South Face of Barrier Peak.  We were expecting overnight showers to have cleared by the time we reached Homer Hut.  Unfortunately this was not the case and light rain greeted us on our arrival.  


The Central Darrans

Friday 7 March 2014, 2:16pm -- Kester

I'd been wanting to go into the Central Darrans for years. Ever since I stood on the top of Barrier Knob - a Darrans neophyte on my way to climb Sabre - and looked over and past Lake Adelaide to the south sides of Taiaroa and Tuhawaiki. Those faces looked far away and inacessible. They seemed to represent the unknown, and I felt the associated mix of apprehension and lure that comes with being a climber unversed in the vagueries of Darrans rock climbing.

One month in Fiordland

Thursday 6 March 2014, 2:54pm -- jazmorris


Pete Harris in the Bowen-Allan Corner

Jaz Morris

One night, sitting around the fire in the Warden's Quarters at Homer Hut and listening to the heavy rain that signalled the end of the Darrans Winter Climbing Meet, my thoughts turned to the following summer. By then, I would be one year into my PhD - time to get some writing done. Homer Hut - what better place to settle down and get away from the distractions of the internet, General Joll and the monotony of Dunedin life? So I talked with Al Walker, 'Hut Bastard,' about wardening over the summer.

The Climbing Space!

Thursday 6 March 2014, 8:37am -- daniel.joll

Steve upclose frozen.jpg

Steve mid morning during our ascent of the Supercaneleta on Fitz Roy. The temperature was somewhere between -15 & -20 our water bottles all froze solid, with one Nelgine splitting from the water freezing inside!

Daniel Joll

The Climbing Space!

To succeed in Patagonia, you must take a chance,
you can’t just sit waiting, your head bowed and cast.
Don’t get in a twist, don’t walk down that path,
just go day by day, then climb hard, light and fast.


First ascent – Somnus North-East Buttress Solo

Monday 17 February 2014, 11:27pm -- bendare

Somnus NE Buttress_1.JPG

Great climbing on the North-East Buttress of Somnus.

Ben Dare

North-East Buttress, 700m, 15/16, first ascent.

Something really struck home with me while reading an article by Jane Morris in the recent 2013 New Zealand Alpine Journal. In particular her closing sentence – “Doorstep adventures: make the most of them wherever you live.”

Rose Pearson's picture

BMC Winter Meet

Thursday 13 February 2014, 10:21am -- Rose Pearson


Ben Eighe, Tripple Buttress. From left to right - East Buttress, Central Buttress (Pigott's route) and West Buttress.

Rose Pearson

The BMC International meet is held every winter. It's a fantastic event bringing together climbers of all abilities from around the world to experience some of Scotland's finest Mixed and Ice climbing. When I found out about it in August 2013, I was particularly keen to attend on NZ's behalf as I was preparing to immigrate to the UK. I did hesitate, however, as I was effectively bed ridden at the time with a broken pelvis. Eventually, I reasoned it would be pretty much healed by then, so I should be able to climb 'something'. I downgraded my mixed and WI abilities accordingly and sent off my application.


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