The author Matty on Kangchungtse
From season-to-season, things generally don't change a lot in climbing world. Maybe companies shave off a few grams here and there, or come out with some nice new colours and styles but generally that's it. Then every now and then something radical happens and it changes the game - think reverse curve picks and leash less tools.
On the horizon for a while now, we have been some pretty interesting concepts in cold weather mountain boots, by top athletes. They all have a common theme: modular design that allows them to use a lighter stripped down boot whiles acclimating on the mountain and then a super gaiter that goes over the lot for the summit push. It makes a lot of sense. If your going on a 8000m peak your probably only going to spend one day of your trip actually at that altitude and the rest of the time you are going to be climbing in boots that are overkill. Modular boots make climbing down low more enjoyable and fast. Also maybe you are only going to climb one 8000m peak in your life, so having a pair of 8000m boots that are necessary for one day of climbing seems a bit ridiculous and wasteful.
Benjamin Vedrines before he set new speed record on K2
Another common theme is the concept of not having a inner boot. Everyone loves climbing in single boots - the fit is precise and without the inner bootie you can get a firm fit over the top of the foot and no heal lift. There seems to be some kind of default need to have an inner boot for cold weather mountaineering and I'm not sure why? Possibly it comes from the age of plastic boots and the fact that a lot of boots are made to be "breathable". Does anyone actually believe that the sweat from their foot is going to get out through an inch of insulation and keep their foot dry? The only thing that this breathability does is allow moisture to get right into all the layers of the boot and then it will freeze when you stop moving. People then think the boots aren't warm enough and need more insulation , crazy!
VBL vapor barrier liner socks have been on the market for a long time and used by people who have realised that the cold was coming from their own feet causing their boots to get wet and freeze. Well, what if we stopped trying to make them breathable? What if the insulation couldn't get wet then we'd have no problems with freezing. Then there would be no need to dry them and therefore no need to have a inner bootie that needs to be removed at the end of the day and "dried out" - which is problematic in itself as you then introduce moisture into your sleeping system. Most of these prototypes that we see being used will most likely never be sold on the market. Although they're awesome , they are too specialist and flimsy for the masses. However I think we can take these ideas and make something more appropriate for commercial sale.
I imagine the future will be a 6000m single boot with a super gaiter for 7000-8000m (think 6000m version of a scarpa phantom tec). There are a lot of people that climb 6000m peaks and in general on expeditions you will spend a lot of time in the 5000m-6000m range and only need to put your boots on at 5000m. Having a single boot for this and technical climbing will be so much better as the fit will be more precise.
This is an area where newer designs have gone backwards, for example the la Sportiva Spantiks climbed better than the newer G2sm, because they have better articulation in the ankle and lacing. The G2sm have no adjustment for the inner boot (like a lot of companies) and the boa system can only give a broad tension and is difficult to fix in the field. I would propose a boa system for the fore foot only or laces and a 'Z' Velcro strap for the upper boot that can be adjusted with gloves on. Insulation would be closed cell foam on the inside of the boot to prevent moisture entering and also be laminated to the inside of the supergaiter for more warmth.
I think this boot design would climb better, be lighter than anything on the market and I think something like this is on the way!
Who would like to see sort of boot design on the shelves?
Killian Jornet's boots for Everest
David Gottler's boots
Author Matty's boots for Makalu
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