DJ Wild
23 Pitches , grade 24, Mixed bolts and trad protection. All belays double bolted and the full route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.
12 quick draws
Single set of nuts , single .2,2 & 3 cams doubles .3 – 1 with optional triples of .3 & .4 cams for pitch
First ascent & first free ascents made during November / December 2025. The route was established ground up over 3 trips to the wall. Daniel Joll & Tanja De Wilde. Some bolting funds support was received from the NZAC bolting fund.
A PDF txt topo can be found here
Water drums are located at the top of pitch 10 & pitch 17. There is also a water drum at the bivy. This should allow you to climb the route carrying minimal water. There is also a water drum on the approach pitches at the top of pitch 4 in the bush as you walk up to pitch 5.
The bivy which is located left of pitch 10 can be reached via a fixed line. We would suggest doing this 20m traverse on belay as there is no guarantee of the condition of the fixed ropes that lead the way into the bivy.
The overhanging crack on pitch 12 is partially bolted. When we tested the large blocks you climb on for the second half of this pitch we thought they were a bit to hollow to be climbed solely on traditional gear for repeat ascents. Therefore we bolted above the crack to keep your rope away from them just encase a block pulls out one day. If your aiding between bolts on gear that’s fine but we would suggest only clipping the bolts on the second half of this pitch when free climbing.
Pitches 1-7 as per Uprising. Straight forward slab climbing which is often wet.
P8 , 15, 9 bolts 40m fixed line at the end of the pitch takes you to a nice stance and double bolt belay.
P9, 24 , 25m , 7 bolts , single rack.
P10, 22, 30m single rack - 1 5 bolts don’t use the hollow flake on the right in the second half of the pitch.
P11 direct. 25m , 21 5 bolts. Just before the anchor of this pitch you will see a rap anchor off to the left of the climbing. Don’t belay here, just use the anchor when you descend.
P12, 24 30m 5 bolts
60m rope to fix from the top of p12 down to p10.
P13, 21/22, 30m 7 bolts. Single rack Straight up off the belay on gear to gain a ledge with a bolt ( long sling )and right leaning traverse past some gear and three more bolts ( long sling ) from the ramp head back left up a hanging slab with four bolts. Staying right of the bolts for better holds. This brings you to a stance directly above your belay. 30m.
P14 19, 6 bolts, 35m, single rack. Head up past two bolts then left to arete and third bolt. Follow the stemming corner. Continue up over easy but runout ground to a bolt. Step left then up and back right via two more. Bolts. Follow the short overhanging corner to on gear.
Rap anchor out right of stem corner.
P15, 16, 30m 5 bolts up the arete then grass past three bolts , step left onto the slab then up via 2 more bolts. More grass climbing to the anchor.
P16, 20, 30m, single rack 6 bolts. Up and left off the belay to first bolt. Avoid starting right of the belay due to a loose block. Straight up after last bolt to belay.
P17, 20, 25m five bolts head slightly left after first bolt to gain some good crimps then more or less straight up to the second bolt. ( hidden from the belay )
P18, 24 6 bolts single rack 30m. Green c3. 2, .3, Follow the ramp on gear then up a crack to bolted face climbing.
P19 23, 35m 4 bolts, take your full rack, Triples of .3,.4 can be handy for the finger crack. Follow the bolts trending right till you reach a glorious splitter tips crack. Climb this straight for a few meters then follow it out right rather than continuing straight up. At the end of the traverse move further right to gain a fist crack and eventually a belay ledge.
There is a double bolt rap anchor mid way through pitch 19 just before the finger crack section. When rapping down there are two potential rap anchors here. The first one is two hangers ( don’t use this it is in the wrong spot ) instead further to climbers left you will find a double ring belay. Use this one.
P20, 15, 25m two bolts single rack. double hanger belay on big ledge out right.
The rap line is at the base of the ramp climbers left of pitch 21.
P21 , 21, 9 bolts 35 m. Watch out for a loose lock at the base of the steeper climbing this needs to be trundled, if you drop it off the wall make sure no one is below! The final bolt is a directional for the second to make sure the rope doesn’t run over the edge. Climb up following bolts and some small to medium cams. At the final bolt when the wall blanks out break left. ( this is the bolt below the directional bolt. )
P22 , 17, 30m, straight up off belay to bolt then #2,&.5 before second bolt. Then up the slab trending right. After a long run out some gear in a corner takes you through a small steep step. Gain the slab and move right again to a belay. Single rack
P23, 20, 5 bolts 20m #2 cam off the belay.
Bivy. Possible for two – three to sleep without portaledge. Between the water drum at pitch 10 and the one at the bivy there should be 40L of water here. Please shit into a paper bag and throw it off the wall to keep the bivy clean.
If hauling a bag there are several lower outs where the route traverses so it is a good idea to tie the bag in short on those pitches.
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