Equipment

From Fiordland to Yosemite: the best approach shoe for the job? Salewa Mountain Trainer II review

Wednesday 20 March 2019, 11:33am -- jazmorris

Salewa Mountain Trainer

Salewa Mountain Trainer

Salewa Mountain Trainer fitted with ultralight crampons

Creator: 
JM

In the saturated and expensive market of high-tech sneakers for climbers, called ‘approach shoes,’ one model has for several years stood out in terms of durability and utility. In partnership with Bobo Products, the New Zealand importer of Salewa, I recently got my hands (or feet) on some new Salewa Mountain Trainer IIs. Not that I needed to: my 5 year old pair still looks almost new, despite considerable abuse. Nevertheless, the new model has received a few upgrades and improvements, and at the outset of this review I’ll simply say that they are great (you can stop reading now if you wish).

Tendon Master 7.8mm Ropes Review

Monday 25 February 2019, 7:57am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Climbing with the Tendon 7.8mm half ropes on North Face of Dent Blanche in Switzerland

Creator: 
Tim Oliver

In search of a lightweight set of half ropes, I have recently been testing out the Tendon Master 7.8mm ropes. I have used them on recent climbs in the European Alps such as the long north faces of Dent Blanche, Aiguille du Jardin, and water-ice climbing in the Haute-Maurienne, and I found them to perform excellently on these particular climbs. If you are looking for a new light, compact double rope setup, read on.

Rating

Jetboil Micro Mo Review

Saturday 24 March 2018, 10:48pm -- daniel.joll

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NZAT Quilt

NZAT Quilt in use on Lobouche East regular route high camp, 5800m

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

I have been using Jet Boil stoves for over 12 years.  During this time, I have used most of the common models starting with the Zip, Flash, Mino Mo, Joule, Sol Ti and most recently the Micro Mo.  As a member of the New Zealand Alpine Team I am lucky enough to get the latest models as part of our sponsorship agreement with Jet Boil.  Jet Boil is the stove I have chosen to use long before we had any form of sponsorship from Jet Boil and it would still be my first choice of stove if I had to go and buy a new one in the future. 

Salewa Approach Shoes Review

Monday 12 March 2018, 8:48am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Relaxing halfway up La Esfinge alpine rock wall in Peru with the Salewa Mountain Trainers

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Salewa produce a wide range of mountain footwear, and one of their specialities is approach shoe footwear. Over the past year, Gemma, Alastair and David have each been trialling a different approach shoe in Salewa's range, each excelling at a different level of ruggedness in the alpine continuum. Gemma has been using the Salewa Mountainer Trainer for big walling in Yosemite, Alastair has been using the Salewa Firetail Evo for long approaches around Mount Cook and Patagonia, and David has been using the Salewa for trail running and less rugged approaches in the Arthurs Pass area.

Salewa Firetail Evo Approach Shoe

Friday 24 March 2017, 12:05pm -- steven.fortune

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Salewa Firetail Evo

Salewa Firetail Evo

There are many alpine rock routes including technical rock climbing, that you want to change into rock shoes for, that you need to carry the shoes you approach in. This is the category this shoe works brilliantly in, that I call approach shoes. Low weight is key here, you don't want to lug your old heavy leather tramping boots up a hard pitch, but they also need to be robust enough to handle a scrambling approach or scree descent that might rip a pair of light fabric trainers to shreds. The Firetail is my favourite shoe in this category. They were light enough to carry up a hard pitch of a new route at Cloudy Peak, robust enough to handle the long scree descent.

Tendon Master 7.8mm Half Rope Review

Thursday 7 January 2016, 2:20am -- daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll heading up a rarely formed Happy Days WI6+ X. Good technique and a steady head is essential as you move onto more demanding ice climbs.

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

For almost three years now I have been climbing with the Tendon Master range of ropes. During this time I have used almost every style from half ropes, light weight single ropes and thick single ropes for big wall climbing. For this review I am going to focus on the 7.8mm Master Half Ropes. These are my favourite ropes for ice and winter alpine climbing. When its time for summer alpine and rock routes I usually move to a pair of 8.5mm Master Half Ropes.

Salewa Raven Combi Goretex mountaineering boots

Saturday 20 June 2015, 2:30pm -- Reg Measures

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Making good use of the Salewa Raven Combi's ankle flexibility while approaching Brewster

Creator: 
Claire Measures

A stiff pair of technical boots is amazing for slashing steps over short sections of snow without needing crampons, confidently edging on rock, or using with technical crampons. Stiff boots are often heavy and cumbersome though. I was looking some light stiff boots for summer climbing when I came across the Salewa Raven Combi.

Petzl Laser Speed Light Ice Screws Review

Monday 26 January 2015, 11:49am -- daniel.joll

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Daniel Joll leading the classic Pilsner Pillar WI6

Creator: 
Jaz Morris

Aluminum and light weight ice screws have been around for many years in various forms. Early Jeff Lowe models that were in short supply or Russian titanium ones that had a tendency to bend or break saw most climbers steer clear of the light weight screw options.

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