Expedition Reports

The Road to Changabang

Saturday 26 March 2022, 8:38pm -- daniel.joll


The North face and West Ridge of Changabang. Pic stolen from the internet.


The road to Changabang has been rather long and winding. It all began over 3 years ago and came to an abrupt end as the COVID pandemic closed international borders and stopping most plans for overseas climbing. However, the mountain was still waiting and we were still thinking of the unrepeated West Ridge. As part of our build up for this expedition our five strong expedition team has headed to Chamonix for one month prior to leaving for India.

Wild Dykes – Ground up adventure climbing on the Charismatic Wall Fiordland

Saturday 26 February 2022, 11:58am -- daniel.joll

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Llew sets off on a new pitch, blowing dust from a freshly drilled bolt hole.

Daniel Joll

Falling backwards head first. Never a good situation to find yourself in. My helmet splits as my head slams into solid granite. My shoulder and elbow softening the blow. A worried voice asks from the belay

“are you hurt ?”

“yes” I reply but “ill be ok, nothing broken”

New Zealand 3000m Peaks Expedition

Wednesday 29 December 2021, 2:18pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Hamish and Alastair on the summit of Tititea/Mt Aspiring, the final peak.

A. McDowell

Every mountainous region has its list of highest peaks. The British Munros. The 4000m peaks of the European Alps. The Himalayan 8000ers. In New Zealand, we have the 3000m peaks.

There are 24 named peaks over 3000m in New Zealand, considering only the highest point of each mountain. Although the 3000m mark is arbitrary, the list of resulting peaks represent the highest and most classical of our mountains, embedded in the history of the Southern Alps.

Soulfly - the First Winter Ascent of the East Face of Flat Top Peak

Sunday 7 November 2021, 4:49pm -- bendare


The line of Soulfly, East Face Flat Top Peak, Fiordland

Ben Dare

I could sense rather than see the face above me as I stumbled through the snow-covered moraine. A presence that loomed out beyond the edge of my vision as a darker shade of black on black in the inky pre-dawn darkness. Flickering glimpses in the beam of my headtorch the only real hint of what lay ahead. Alpine starts can be both a blessing and a curse in that respect. You don’t have to deal with the intimidation of a large face hanging over you on the final approach. But the uncertainty can be equally as daunting. Not knowing what lies ahead and what the coming day will bring.

Big Wall Training Trip 2021

Sunday 11 April 2021, 9:14pm -- James.Hobson

Big Wall 2021

Big Wall 2021

Camp set up for three.

James Hobson

Yosemite here we come.
Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team’s training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies in 2020. Well, not according to COVID-19, bummer what should we do now? Lucky enough we have our very own version of The Chief or Half Dome right in our back yard.
The Airport Wall, in the Milford Sound, just out the plane window under Barren Peak. With the recent establishment of ‘The Mile High Club’ perfect for our big wall training trip, we wouldn’t even have to book plane tickets.

Southern Alps Ski Traverse

Friday 9 October 2020, 7:40pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Crossing Terra Nova Pass into the Godley Glacier

A. McDowell

The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya cancelled, the lockdown forced us to consider how we could exert an expedition-scale effort here in our backyard, the Southern Alps.

Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta

Friday 29 November 2019, 2:16pm -- daniel.joll


Daniel sending the Enduro Corner during Caro and his ascent of Free Rider.

John McCune

In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was my second attempt on Free Rider with Jon. Earlier in the year my first attempt ended with a dislocated shoulder in the offwidth above El Cap Spire. We were sorting our haul bags and having a quick chat with Adam Ondra who was doing a photo shoot. We had just finished our attempt on Free Rider which had gone well but ultimately we had both fallen a couple of times. Adam asked me dead pan: "Why didn’t you just try again?" I laughed, we did!

Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.


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