Expedition Reports

Southern Alps Ski Traverse

Friday 9 October 2020, 7:40pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Crossing Terra Nova Pass into the Godley Glacier

Creator: 
A. McDowell

The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya cancelled, the lockdown forced us to consider how we could exert an expedition-scale effort here in our backyard, the Southern Alps.

Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta

Friday 29 November 2019, 2:16pm -- daniel.joll

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Daniel sending the Enduro Corner during Caro and his ascent of Free Rider.

Creator: 
John McCune

In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was my second attempt on Free Rider with Jon. Earlier in the year my first attempt ended with a dislocated shoulder in the offwidth above El Cap Spire. We were sorting our haul bags and having a quick chat with Adam Ondra who was doing a photo shoot. We had just finished our attempt on Free Rider which had gone well but ultimately we had both fallen a couple of times. Adam asked me dead pan: "Why didn’t you just try again?" I laughed, we did!

Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.
 

Peru 2019 - Cordillera Blanca

Thursday 27 June 2019, 10:23am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Meri Simms climbing the summit slopes of Ishinca in Peru's Cordillera Blanca

Creator: 
Matt Scholes

Peru and the Cordillera Blanca must have the most easily accessed 6000m peaks in the world. It’s possible to be at a base camp for a peak the same day you leave town. It’s also a cheap country to travel in and climbing requires no peak fees. The dry winter season also has stable weather giving us a good chance of getting up high.

King Cobra - Alaskan Big Wall Free Climbing

Sunday 16 June 2019, 12:55pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Kim Ladiges firing up an off-fingers splitter crack on Mount Barrill in Alaska's Ruth Gorge

Creator: 
John Price

Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of neighbouring Mount Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack Gravel” of the Ruth Gorge.

I’m balanced on an arete well above my last piece. I reach for a pecker piton and weld it into a thin crack with my free hand, tightening my crimp on the other. I launch into the corner above, loaded with tottering loose flakes.

Gangapurna Expedition 2018, Nepal

Saturday 20 April 2019, 7:30pm -- Matthew Scholes

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Kim approaching Gangapurna

Kim approaching Gangapurna

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

September 30, 2018, NZAT members Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes flew into Nepal for a 6 week expedition with the primary objective being the south face of Gangapurna, 7455m. Here Matt Scholes recounts his and Kim's journey to attempt this huge 1500 metre face in the Annapurna Massif.

The Manaslu Circuit - Acclimatisation Trek

Brammah Glacier Expedition - Kishtwar, India

Tuesday 6 November 2018, 9:15pm -- Reg Measures

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Bivy on the North Ridge of Flat Top

Tim surveys the morning view from our partially buried tent after our second night at 5100m on the North Spur of Flat Top.

Creator: 
Reg Measures

In mid-September 2018 I teamed up with Tim Elson, a member of the newly invigorated Alpine Climbing Group in the UK, for an expedition to the Brammah Glacier in Jammu and Kashmir, India. We'd identified two amazing looking objectives: the 1600m high North Spur of a 6100m peak called Flat Top, and the South Face of the Kishtwar Eiger, a peak various recorded as somewhere between 5600m and 6000m depending on the map.

Twenty Five Mile Creek Ice

Monday 27 August 2018, 11:35am -- bendare

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Twenty File Mile Falls. WI4R, 100m. The main flow in the centre of the cirque.

Twenty File Mile Falls. WI4R, 100m. The main flow in the centre of the cirque.

Creator: 
Ben Dare

 

A multi-pitch ice climbing crag located at the head of Twenty Five Mile Creek – a tributary of the Rees River.

This was an area first spotted during a scenic flight in the winter of 2016, but wasn’t properly explored until June of 2018 when three routes were climbed. The cirque at the head of the Twenty Five Mile Creek catchment sits directly below Twenty Five Mile Saddle and contains at least ten separate ice lines. Including the main flow of Twenty Five Mile Falls - a 100m WI4 route. This is marked as the 98m waterfall on the topographic map.

Yosemite - One Month of El Capitan

Sunday 17 June 2018, 10:02pm -- alastair.mcdowell

El Capitan

El Capitan

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Yosemite Valley saw a true Kiwi invasion this spring season, swarming to the most famous big walls in the world. Our attention in this expedition was unequivocally focused on the greatest of them all, El Capitan. Over the course of the month, our group would go on to climb the Motherstone by six different routes, for a total of 15 El Cap ascents between them.

Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team’s official training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies. These two destinations are the most convenient for kiwi climbers looking to gain mileage & experience ice climbing and big wall climbing as a foundation for larger alpine objectives.

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