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The Dreamliner Airport Wall Milford Sound

Saturday 8 May 2021, 9:49am -- daniel.joll

Daniel on pitch 7 (26) .JPG

Daniel on pitch 7 (26)

Creator: 
Llewellyn Murdoch

Free at last, free at last. I could sense James summoning the words of Martin Luther king as he dreamed of finally leaving the hanging belay at the base of pitch 8.  After six days potentially waiting, belaying, climbing, camping on the wall and enduring some wet cold suffer bivies he could finally return to the ground.  The free ascent was now complete and we could say goodbye to the Sky Couch bivy our home for the past week.   

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Mile High Club 700m, 22 pitches,26-27 , Airport Wall, Milford Sound

Sunday 8 November 2020, 4:19pm -- daniel.joll

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Steve Fortune on pitch 21 during the first one day free ascent of the Mile High Club. Nov 2020.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Short approach, many pitches, interesting and challenging climbing.  Personally when it came to climbing in NZ I had always hoped I could either climb or develop a true big wall style route.  While we have many nice granite cliffs in NZ most of them require a long approach and many do not have sustained climbing throughout.  Being a bit lazy in terms of walking 6-10 hours for 300-500m of climbing I often found myself lacking inspiration as I searched through guide books and maps looking for a new climbing challenge.  When it comes to rock climbing I love long climbs with short approaches, t

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Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2020

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:30pm -- jazmorris

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Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Ruari Macfarlane on P1 of 'Antics' South Face Joffre

Creator: 
JM

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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'Antics' - new route on the South Face of Mt Joffre

Monday 27 July 2020, 10:29pm -- jazmorris

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics'

Maddy at a belay on 'Antics' South Face Mt Joffre

Creator: 
JM

Team member Jaz Morris along with Ruari Macfarlane and Maddy Whittaker recently made the first recorded ascent of an often-looked-at line on the south face of Joffre Peak in the West Matukituki Valley.

Going at grade 5, III (WI4 crux) and seven 60-70 m pitches (450 m total) in length, the route “Antics” makes a great direct approach to Colin Todd Hut! The route name references the annual journal of the Otago University Tramping Club (of which Maddy and Jaz have both been President) and the long connection of the OUTC to the valley.

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Copper Point New Route - Straight outta lock down

Friday 29 May 2020, 11:20am -- daniel.joll

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Merry stepping out of lock down onto pitch 1

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb.  Straight out of lock down is 175m long and has some excellent overhanging crack climbing on solid rock.  

If you enjoy trad climbing this is something worth checking out. 

Click the link below for a full topo and route beta pdf. 

 

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Change is coming

Tuesday 28 January 2020, 2:02pm -- daniel.joll

Fitz Roy Sunset.jpg

Fitz Roy Sunset.

Sun set over Mt Fitz Roy, Patagonia. As a storm fast approaches.

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently.  We are in the process of a generational change. 

Like a small wave lapping at your ankles, the next generation often arrives relatively unnoticed.  As the years pass, the wave grows stronger, before you know it a large breaker simply pushes past you and there you have it, here they are.

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Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019

Wednesday 24 July 2019, 3:46am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

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2019 - 2022 Team Trials

Thursday 4 April 2019, 8:08pm -- daniel.joll

2019 Team trial participants

2019 Team trial participants

Creator: 
Ben Dare

During March 2019 the NZAT held a trial in Queenstown for new members to join our mentoring program.  This is something we do every three years.  Details of what we are looking for from applicants can be found on our website.  A run down of our previous 2016 trial can be found here

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North Face of Petit Dru, Allain-Leininger route

Monday 18 February 2019, 7:42am -- alastair.mcdowell

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North Face of Les Drus. Allain-Leininger route with bivouac spot marked

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Les Drus is the most impressive granite monolith overlooking the Chamonix Valley. Often you will catch a glance of the intimidating, dark rock peak from the opposite sunny side of the valley, and its a wonder that this face would be so alluring. This winter in Chamonix has been unusually dry, the mountains are devoid of ice, every new snow fall brings dry snow that fattens the ski-fields, but blows off the steep mountain faces. So instead of lamenting it, we embraced it, and set about blunting our tools and crampons on 850m of granite dry tooling up the North Face of the Petit Dru.

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