Peaking Pete: A Story of Fear and a New Route

Wednesday 25 February 2015, 5:25pm -- Pete Harris

Darrans Summer 2015-1-3.jpg

Daniel Joll on the Barrier-Crosscut Col

Pete Harris

As I sit in my 9 a.m. Biological Chemistry lecture on Monday morning, I can barely grip a pen due to eviscerated finger tips, nor can I focus due to being in the car for the 18 hours prior in order to make my first lecture of the semester. Nonetheless, I’m still beaming from ear to ear from the stunning, (if somewhat insane) three day trip down to the Darrans.


Rose Pearson's picture

Summer in Chamonix

Monday 26 January 2015, 1:49pm -- Rose Pearson

Some experiences are so much larger than those it precedes, it takes a time before they can be shared. For me, the two weeks I spent climbing in Chamonix with Daniel Joll in August 2014 were such an experience. Not only were the routes we climbed longer and harder than any I had previously climbed, they were also more committing and several were climbed in poor conditions with marginal forecasts. This is why it is only now, 6 months after the end of the trip, that I am finally putting a pen to paper.


The Man Who Lives In The Mountains, Welcome Home - Poems by Tui Kraal

Thursday 18 September 2014, 9:27am -- daniel.joll

West Rib Rest.JPG

Soaking up the Alaskan scenery high up on the West Rib of Denali

Matthew Scholes

The man who lives in the mountains is free.

He must be, if he is to go beyond the reaches of the forest, and find his path to the summit.

The man who lives in the mountains is determined.

He pushes through with gritted teeth and an icy beard, because he knows what richness will reward him at the top.

The man who lives in the mountains is patient.

He has to retrace his steps a thousand times over, taking two forward and one back.

The man who lives in the mountains is honest.


New Route on the South-East Face of Ferintosh Peak

Sunday 27 July 2014, 3:07pm -- bendare

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The South-East face of Ferintosh Peak with the route climbed marked.

Ben Dare

New route on the South-East Face of Ferintsoh Peak (2497m). The route starts up steep ice through the lower rock band, slightly right of centre, before following a vague gully system to finish just right of the crest of the main buttress. 450m, WI4-, M4, alpine grade MC5. Ben Dare solo 8th July 2014


South Face East Twin Second Ascent

Monday 10 March 2014, 3:59pm -- daniel.joll

Queenstown is the ideal location to live as a climber in NZ.  Close enough to all the major South Island alpine climbing destinations it is perfect for taking advantage of short weather windows and maximising your weekend adventures.  Ben Dare and I left home at 6am on Saturday morning with high hopes of a climb on the South Face of Barrier Peak.  We were expecting overnight showers to have cleared by the time we reached Homer Hut.  Unfortunately this was not the case and light rain greeted us on our arrival.  


The Climbing Space!

Thursday 6 March 2014, 8:37am -- daniel.joll

Steve upclose frozen.jpg

Steve mid morning during our ascent of the Supercaneleta on Fitz Roy. The temperature was somewhere between -15 & -20 our water bottles all froze solid, with one Nelgine splitting from the water freezing inside!

Daniel Joll

The Climbing Space!

To succeed in Patagonia, you must take a chance,
you can’t just sit waiting, your head bowed and cast.
Don’t get in a twist, don’t walk down that path,
just go day by day, then climb hard, light and fast.


First ascent – Somnus North-East Buttress Solo

Monday 17 February 2014, 11:27pm -- bendare

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Great climbing on the North-East Buttress of Somnus.

Ben Dare

North-East Buttress, 700m, 15/16, first ascent.

Something really struck home with me while reading an article by Jane Morris in the recent 2013 New Zealand Alpine Journal. In particular her closing sentence – “Doorstep adventures: make the most of them wherever you live.”


South Face of Nazomi - New Route

Tuesday 4 February 2014, 9:55am -- bendare


The south faces of Aoraki/Mt Cook (left) and Nazomi (right) with the new route climbed marked in red.

Ben Dare

The spring of 2013 will not be remembered for its sustained periods of settled weather. Instead much like the winter that preceded it, it was dominated by warmer than normal temperatures and frequent squally frontal systems. What few clear spells that did come through were short lived and often directly followed heavy snow falls. This all coupled together to make for less than ideal climbing conditions.



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