Training Trips

Climbing Dasler Pinnacles - Hopkins Valley

Thursday 7 November 2019, 9:56pm -- ben.mangan

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Dasler Pinnacles Hopkins Valley
Creator: 
Ben Mangan
Ben Mangan, Lionel Clay, James Hobson
 
With the freezing level rapidly rising all over the Southern Alps – it was time to grab the climbing shoes and our sun hats and seek out some alpine rock, staying as far away from the slushy spring snow as we could. Dasler Pinnacles up the Hopkins Valley ticked all the boxes.
 

Walker Spur in Winter - Grandes Jorasses

Friday 26 April 2019, 9:18pm -- Anonymous (not verified)

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Dan Joll nearing the top of the Walker Spur as alpenglow lights up the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
K. Ladiges

This is a trip report for an ascent of the Walker spur by Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll on the 22/3/2019 (first day of spring so not quite a winter ascent but certainly “wintery”).

Conditions

Temperature for 4000m max :  -11C    min :   -17C    light winds.

Major snowfall occurred 5 days previously, strong winds had stripped a fair bit of this snow off the ridge so that it mostly appeared rocky from a distance.

Route

A Winter in the French Alps

Tuesday 23 April 2019, 6:39am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Lionel Clay on the descent of the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Spending a whole season in a place as dynamic as Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps is an interesting experience. Observing the conditions & season change through the months, and adapting to the most practical way to experience the mountains is a great learning process. From skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or rock climbing, all is possible in the Mont Blanc massif and surrounds, and is all a matter of patience. Here Alastair recalls the various trips made over the course of the winter by the NZAT contingent of himself, Daniel Joll, Lionel Clay and Kim Ladiges. 

The Salathe Wall

Tuesday 12 December 2017, 6:32pm -- gemmawilson

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Gemma at the top of the Enduro Corner

Creator: 
Dan Joll

Salathe Baby! There were people everywhere! Coming up underneath us, rapping down on top of us, jugging fixed ropes and haul bags from every angle. Freerider is a 3 pitch variant of the famous Salathe Wall on the south-west face of El Capitan. It has become an incredibly popular route, and after climbing it you can see why!

Bugaboos Alpine Rock: The Beckey-Chouinard

Thursday 10 August 2017, 8:20pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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The West Buttress of South Howser Tower at dawn

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Eyeing the next thin slot above, I jammed my fingers in deep and wedged them into the constriction. Far above my last piece of protection, I reached for the silver cam on my harness that would fit inside the crack, before suddenly noticing a rusted piton in the granite to my right. Hammered to the hilt and likely fifty years old. I tried to imagine myself in the footsteps of Fred Beckey, and Yvon Chouinard, questing up the 2000 foot west buttress of the South Howser tower, way back in 1961.

The Nose of El Capitan

Monday 31 July 2017, 12:39pm -- alastair.mcdowell

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Gemma leading on the third pitch of The Nose

Creator: 
A. McDowell

My legs hung over the edge. Daisy chains reined me in taught to the wall. I reeled myself back onto the ledge, shortening the tethers with my fifi hook. A bout of cramp surged through my dehydrated legs. I jerked stiff and straight, hamstrings tingling where the harness dug in, then slumped back over the edge and waited for dawn to arrive over Camp V. Only seven pitches remained between us and the summit plateau of El Capitan.

A New Alpine Rock Route on Cloudy Peak

Friday 21 April 2017, 10:30am -- Sarwan Chand

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Sarwan and Jack approaching the summit of Cloudy Peak after having completed a new route on the southwest ridge

Creator: 
S. Fortune

The Expedition Climbers Club (ECC) recently organised a rock climbing trip to Cloudy Peak in late February this year with the intention of encouraging alpine rock climbing on new and existing routes. With a reasonable but less than ideal weather forecast, Steve Fortune along with Arthur Lachat and Coco of the French Alpine team headed up to Erewhon late on the evening of the 23rd, armed with a rack, a savage looking machete and several rolls of pink tape.

Climbing Moab's Classic Desert Towers

Sunday 9 April 2017, 10:28am -- alastair.mcdowell

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Alastair on Fine Jade (5.11) on the Rectory

Creator: 
J. Bouchard

After two months of fantastic ice & mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies, finally the seasons were beginning to signal a change, with warm temperatures melting off ice pillars and sending avalanche ratings up to extreme. Colours of Instagram were also transforming, from the white, blue and grey of the alpine to the rich orange and red of the desert. Canadians were flocking southwards to the sandstone splitters of Moab, and I felt compelled to join them.

Arthurs Pass Ice

Saturday 24 December 2016, 2:44pm -- Sarwan Chand

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Sarwan Chand Pitch 3 Double Blind Philistine Bluffs

The author enjoying phat conditions on P3 of the first ascent of Double Blind, Philistine Bluffs

Creator: 
Ben Ellis

The words “Arthurs Pass” and “ice” are two words most climbers never use in the same sentence. The fact of the matter is, ice routes do exist in the Arthurs Pass area. These routes are often not in the form of semi- transparent blue pillars with easy approaches but instead may be mixed with rock, turf and may be difficult to access. Some climbers often slag off climbing around Arthurs Pass, but the benefits gained from a backyard of Arthurs climbing can quickly silence the staunchest climbing folk.

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